Giro Montaro III Mips
Words Lester Perry
Images Thomas Falconer
RRP $299
Distributor Worralls
I was excited to get my head into this new Giro Montaro III Mips helmet. Before receiving it, I’d seen some pics online and thought it looked pretty decent and ticked the necessary boxes for me to select a helmet.
The trail-focused Montaro III is almost a complete revision of the hugely popular, but ageing, previous edition, uniquely named the Montaro II. This new version certainly draws inspiration from other helmets in the Giro range and, dare I say it, from other brands. Although I poke fun, the result is a unique overall silhouette. I’m sure it won’t be for everyone, but when it comes to helmets, one seldom suits all.
There’s plenty of coverage on offer, and the helmet feels like your head goes some ways into it, meaning it comes relatively low towards the ears and back of the head. Internally, there’s a Mips Evolve Core, which is a refreshed version of the Mips slip plane liner. During an angled impact, the sliding action between the Mips layer and the impact-absorbing outer shell helps dampen rotational forces and, therefore, reduce neck and brain injuries (at least according to Mips). In the case of the Montaro III, the Mips shell doesn’t significantly affect breathability or airflow through the vents, unlike the earlier Mips liner system.
Giro’s Roc Loc tensioning system gives users a micro-adjustable fit via its dial tensioner and vertically adjustable tensioning cradle. The visor is vertically adjustable through two fixed positions. When in the highest position, there’s plenty of room for a pair of glasses to be holstered in the front vents. Most glasses will slide comfortably into the rear vents, too, so whichever place you prefer to stow them, you’ll find a solution on the Montaro. The helmet plays nicely with goggles, too. A rubberised section on the rear helps keep a goggle strap in place, and there’s ample room below the front of the helmet so goggles don’t get squeezed downwards on most faces. However, I do wonder if this may happen on smaller faces with large goggles – something to consider if you’re an open-face helmet goggle wearer.
Keeping the lid in place is a FIDLOCK V-BUCKLE, something I miss on helmets without it now. This magnetic wonder is a single-hand quick release and even securing it can be done with one hand with the proper technique and some practice.
On the trail
I find the fit of the Montaro is pretty good on my head – not the best I’ve worn, but one of the better. It seems the low-profile, sparse padding means it doesn’t feel as snug on the head as some, though the upside is it has minimal contact points on my head, which helps with cooling.
All the features of this helmet mean it tips the scales towards being one of the weightier trail helmets I’ve used. No doubt it offers plenty of protection thanks to its features, but theoretically, other lighter-weight helmets offer equivalent protection. There’s roughly a 75-gram difference between the Montaro and another recent review helmet with very similar features, including a rotational impact damper and FIDLOCK closure, so it’s not insignificant.
Weight aside, everything else with the Montaro is excellent; there’s a ton of airflow thanks to ample venting and substantial internal channelling. Even at slow speeds, the helmet didn’t feel stifling.
The outer hard shell wraps right around the bottom edge of the helmet, keeping that all-important inner foam safe from harm. Even while the helmet rolls around in a car boot between rides, it should still look pretty fresh, though results may vary!
It took me some fiddling to get the Roc Loc tensioner adjusted to the optimal position, but I got there in the end. At times, I still find the curvature of the tensioner on either side of the dial doesn’t quite suit my head perfectly, and occasionally, it’s caused me some annoyance. However, this could be a ‘me’ problem exacerbated by having no hair to give a little more padding.
With a $299 RRP, the Montaro III sits at the lower end of the price spectrum for a helmet with these features and coverage. All in all, it’s a solid helmet that offers a lot of protection for the dollars. Sure, there’s a bit of a weight penalty, but I’d wager that this extra weight comes in the form of more protection over some lighter-weight options in the market, so that’s got to be a positive.
RockShox Zeb
Words: Liam Friary
Images: Sven Martin & Callum Wood
Distributor: Worralls
RRP: $2495
Components, suspension and bikes are always going through a process of constant refinement. Often it can seem a bit like a ploy to get us all to consume more, and that’s a valid perspective. But the thing is, often the refinement stems from the sport’s progression and riders getting faster and hitting harder. This drive is mainly through the competitive elements of the sport, such as downhill and enduro, but there’s still a strong case for the everyday trail rider. There’s also continued progression with trails, bike parks, and terrain, and this often means riders demand more of their bikes, suspension and products.
The newly updated, burly RockShox Zeb falls into the progression category and draws direct inspiration from the RockShox Boxxer. This development stems from the latest advancements in world cup downhill racing, which have driven the suspension updates across the RockShox Zeb Lyrik Vivid and Super Deluxe models. Across this issue, I’ve shared some insights from a press camp I attended in February. Queenstown hosted editors from global mountain bike media outlets who spent a week riding RockShox’s new downhill and trail suspension. I rode a Santa Cruz Hightower equipped with a RockShox Lyrik fork and a FOX Float X Factory shock. We tested our current setups for a few days before switching between them using an a-b-a testing method. This involved cycling back and forth between our old suspension, specifically the previous generation RockShox Lyrik, and the new RockShox Zeb. The launch event included six days of riding followed by another month of ride testing on more familiar local trails.
The centrepiece of the new Zeb update is the new Linear XL air spring, and it’s worth understanding what it does rather than letting it blur into the spec sheet. It’s not a marketing name. It describes a specific engineering approach that changes how the fork feels through its travel, and it’s the main reason the new Zeb rides differently to the old one.
Most air springs are progressive by nature. That’s not a flaw, it’s physics. As you compress an air chamber the pressure rises, which means the further you push into the travel the harder the spring pushes back. The result is a spring curve that ramps up toward the end of the stroke. This gives you bottom-out resistance without needing a separate mechanical bumper, but it also means the fork feels different at twenty percent of travel than it does at eighty percent. Predictable it is not. You get a supple initial response that stiffens noticeably mid-stroke and firms up hard near the end. Riders learn to work with this but they’re always adjusting for it, consciously or not. A linear spring does roughly the same thing throughout its travel. The fork feels the same at twenty percent as it does at sixty. What you set up is what you get.
RockShox’s Linear XL system is an attempt to flatten that curve. The approach involves increasing the volume of both the positive and negative air chambers while simultaneously reducing the piston diameter and increasing the inner diameter of the shaft. Taken together these changes mean the fork runs at higher pressure but the rate the pressure increases as you compress through the travel is slower and more consistent. The Air Annex, an additional air chamber mounted on the side of the fork leg, adds further volume to the lower leg, reinforcing the flatter spring curve. The result is a spring that behaves more like a coil: predictable throughout the stroke rather than stiffening in stages.
RockShox also refined the fork’s lubrication and small-bump behaviour through two supporting technologies. ButterWagonTech introduces small indentations machined across the lower section of the stanchions, below the dust wipers, which draw oil upward during rebound. On every stroke out, oil is actively redistributed across the bushing contact area rather than relying on gravity alone. Less friction throughout the stroke, more consistent movement, less arm pump on long rough runs. Complementing this are the ButterCups – elastomers mounted on both the spring and damping sides that filter small impacts and high-frequency vibrations, taking the edge off chatter before it reaches your hands. Then there are the breather holes, two small drill holes in each stanchion just below the oil seal. In a big hit the air trapped in the casting has somewhere to go, distributing quickly and evenly rather than creating a pressure spike. Oil circulation improves too, keeping damping consistent under repeated hard impacts. Together these three details are about keeping the fork moving cleanly and, honestly, not letting friction and trapped air compromise the spring curve the Linear XL system is working to deliver.
The Linear XL spring doesn’t work in isolation. Because the spring is more linear, less progressive, the Charger 3.2 damper that pairs with it in the new Zeb is tuned more progressively to compensate. The damper picks up where the spring backs off. This is important to understand because putting a Charger 3.2 into an older fork would feel unusually firm — the damper is calibrated specifically for the flatter spring curve, not for the progressive curve of the previous generation. The system is designed to work as a matched pair. RockShox describe the goal as coil-spring feel without giving up air’s key advantage — tune it with a pump rather than swap a spring.
On trail the difference is in the consistency. With a progressive spring curve, you develop a sense of where the fork is in its travel and you ride accordingly, backing off slightly before the middle of the stroke stiffens, or driving harder knowing the end of travel will support you. With a more linear spring that calibration becomes simpler. The fork is doing roughly the same thing throughout. Put simply, you can stop thinking about where you are in the travel and start thinking about the trail in front of you, which is exactly where your attention should be. During the camp in Queenstown this was most noticeable on repeated laps of the same trails, the fork felt consistent in a way that let you push harder without having to relearn its behaviour each time. Compared to the previous generation Lyrik, the Zeb felt firmer and stiffer but still nimble. It could hit harder when asked to, which is partly a function of the increased travel (150mm Lyrik to 170mm Zeb), but across the stroke it felt plusher , which is the Linear XL story in a single ride impression. The weight increase is noticeable if you’re looking for it, but the performance gain makes it an easy trade. What stood out most was the grip in technical terrain at lower speeds, the kind of riding where a fork that sits high and active in its travel makes the difference between traction and washing out. The steep, chunky terrain of Queenstown tested the support end of that equation. Rotorua tested the suppleness end, root-littered trails where the fork needed to stay planted and small-bump sensitive at the same time. It held up well in both.
From the outset, the even and therefore more predictable spring curve immediately draws attention. The fork responds sensitively to small bumps and irregularities offering plenty of feedback. This is complemented by a progressive damping tune providing adequate support during hard compressions and fast berms. Even under heavy braking the front remains responsive without diving too deep, and the fork consistently rides pleasantly high in its travel.
The a-b-a testing format at the camp – old fork, new fork, old fork again on the same trails – is exactly the kind of structured comparison that makes this difference legible rather than just ‘felt’. The Zeb with the updated spring felt less variable through its travel. Less time spent managing the fork, more time spent riding the trail. And it performed well during the multiple runs in Queenstown. The solid chassis helped with confidence on steep tech terrain and behaved well in those relentless braking ruts. As for more pedalling on trails, the fork felt predictable and planted when transitioning to flatter or technical climbs. It was slacker than what I was used to but after a few rides it wasn’t a thing, and I liked having more travel on the descents so the payoff was well worth it. That said, I’d like to try the new RockShox Lyrik with similar internals of the Zeb for more all-mountain or pedalling days that I’m more used to.
RockShox has refined the setup with clearer, numbered adjuster dials and additional height indicators on the stanchions. One thing worth knowing: Linear XL runs higher setup pressures than the previous generation, so if the numbers on the pump look wrong, that’s why. The smaller piston needs more air to reach the same SAG — get it right and the spring rewards you. As usual, there are SAG markings and a sticker on the fork for quick base setup. It’s remarkable how much the adjuster dials affect the fork’s behaviour. The high-speed compression circuit, in particular, significantly influences the fork’s travel height. With just a few clicks, the setup can be easily adapted to various trails – from rough high-speed tracks to steep downhill sections, flowy bike park runs to loamy fern littered trails of Rotorua.
The new Zeb is a brawler’s dream, perfect for park laps, technical trails, steep shuts, swift descents and anything else thrown its way. It’s a solid companion for an enduro brawler or long-travel eMTB and I think it’d be a great fit. I’m eager to get an eMTB to fit the Zeb onto to see how it responds. It’s a classic evolution with a clear focus on a more linear and predictable spring curve. After my initial testing period, it responds sensitively, behaves predictably and maintains a pleasant travel height. The overhauled Zeb fork levels it up for today’s riders.
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CamelBak Chase Adventure 8 Vest
Words Liam Friary
Images Caleb Smith
RRP $250
Distributor Southern Approach
There’s a particular style of riding where you need to carry more than your water bottle and whatever you have strapped to your bike or keep in frame storage (if you have one). But sometimes a full-blown backpack feels like overkill. On these days, you’re committed to being out for hours, tackling technical terrain, and need quick access to everything without fumbling around trying to get access to your gear.
When I first strapped on the Chase Adventure 8 Vest, I’ll admit I was sceptical – in the past, I’ve found vests either too snug or restrictive to wear. The Chase Adventure 8 Vest is designed for those big mountain all-day rides where preparation is everything. Eight litres total capacity, supplied with a two-litre Crux bladder, and enough clever organisation to make my tidy, slightly OCD self happy. The vest format means it sits above your jersey and/or bib pockets. This helps a lot as you’re not fighting for space but rather adding, and you can easily access any snacks or gear that’s not stashed in the vest.
The standout feature here is what CamelBak calls the “Command Center Harness”. It’s essentially a chest-mounted organisation system that puts your essentials right where you can see and grab them without contorting like a gymnast or stopping to dig through pockets. There’s integrated tool organisation built into the harness itself, which means your multi-tool, tyre plugs, and other critical bits are right there on your chest, easily within reach if something goes awry.
The main storage sits in the back panel with six litres of dedicated gear space. I managed to pack bike tools, some trail snacks, and a small first aid kit, and still had room for extras. The stretch overflow pocket on the outside is perfect for items you need quick access to – I stuffed my jacket in there. You can just grab the jacket on the descents or when the weather gets inclement without having to faff with zips and the like.
CamelBak has fitted this vest with their 3D Grid Mesh Harness, which does an admirable job of keeping airflow happening between you and the pack. But don’t get it confused – you’ll still be wearing something on your torso, so things will heat up. However, the airflow is pretty good when compared with other packs. The lightweight 420D recycled nylon construction helps here – it’s tough enough to handle branches and rocks but doesn’t add unnecessary bulk or weight.
The fit is secured with dual adjustable sternum straps. Being able to fine-tune the upper and lower chest fit means you can get it properly snug without feeling like you’re in a straitjacket. It did take some adjusting throughout the ride to get the sweet spot. The vest stays put remarkably well, even when you’re getting rowdy on technical descents or grinding up steep climbs. There’s minimal bounce or side-to-side movement, which is crucial when you’re trying to move around the bike.
I did find the fit good overall, though it could have been a bit better around the shoulders for me. However, this could be due to the winter months spent in the gym. Getting the right fit is crucial with a vest-style pack, more so than a traditional backpack, so definitely try before you buy if possible.
The two-litre Crux bladder is the same quality you’ll find across CamelBak’s range. The bite valve remains easy to drink from, positive shut-off when you’re done, and the magnetic tube trap keeps the hose secure against the shoulder strap when you’re not using it. It stays put on rough descents and didn’t bother me at all. The vest also features reflective elements for visibility, which is handy if your all-day ride stretches into dusk. There’s even provision for adding impact protection if you want back protection on gnarlier rides.
The capacity sits in an interesting, sweet spot. It’s not trying to be an overnighter like the H.A.W.G – this is for big single-day missions or rides where you need more than minimal kit but don’t want to feel like a pack mule.
I found myself reaching for this pack on more occasions with the warmer months, longer rides and changeable weather. I have been riding hip packs but lately, I’ve swayed back to the vest option due to its fit-and-forget nature and it sitting higher on the back. And, at 400 grams, it’s quite light for the capacity and build quality. When you cinch everything down for a shorter ride with minimal gear, it compresses nicely and doesn’t feel like you’re hauling around a half-empty sack. Equally, when you load it up properly, the harness system distributes the weight well enough that it doesn’t feel like it’s all pulling backwards off your shoulders.
The vest format really shines in situations where you’re frequently on and off the bike – technical trails with hike-a-bike sections, or rides where you’re stopping regularly to snack, session features or take photos. There’s no wrestling with shoulder straps or waist belts. And when riding, the vest just stays put and moves with you naturally.
The Chase Adventure 8 Vest is a well-executed piece of kit and it does what it says on the tin. It’s probably not for all riders, but it’s handy for those longer, more committing days in the mountains where preparation matters and quick access to your gear is invaluable.
KS LEV Circuit Wireless Dropper Post
Words Liam Friary
Images Ralph Cabansag
RRP $799
Distributor Everoutdoor
Wireless droppers are in vogue lately. KS has thrown its hat firmly into the ring with the LEV Circuit. Let’s start with what makes this thing tick. The LEV Circuit is KS’s answer to the wireless dropper question, building on the proven internals from their well- regarded LEV series, but cutting the cord entirely.
No cables, no housing, no internal routing headaches. Just a Bluetooth connection between the remote and the post. Simple as.
Installation is a breath of fresh air. Drop the post in, clamp it down, pair the remote via Bluetooth, and you’re sorted. It literally took less than five minutes. It was a real pleasure when compared to wrestling internal cables through modern frames. The whole setup took me maybe twenty minutes, and most of that was just getting the saddle height dialled in. The remote runs on a standard CR2032 battery, while the post itself has a rechargeable battery that slots in neatly. Everything you need comes in the box: remote, battery, charger. Job done.
The post itself is available in 31.6 and 30.9mm versions of the Circuit, with travel set at 125, 150, 175, maxing out at a very respectable 200mm. KS has clearly thought about modern geometry here, with total post lengths that should fit most frames without too much drama. The adjustable air pressure at the base of the post lets you dial in the return speed to your preference, which is a nice touch. Mechanically, it’s nearly identical to the standard LEV, just flipped around. The air valve for adjusting return speed sits at the bottom of the post, while a small motor up top opens the hydraulic valve when you hit the remote.
The rechargeable 450 mAh battery slides in behind the seat clamp, keeping things tidy. KS reckons it’ll run for up to eight weeks on a charge under normal use, and it takes about 4.5 hours to top up with the included charger. The remote uses a CR2032 coin cell that should last around eight months, with an LED that flips from green to red when it’s time for a swap. You can grab one from any petrol station or supermarket if needed. I’ve had that happen on a few occasions, so it’s worth having a spare and double-checking battery life before rolling out.
Now, let’s talk about how this post performs on the trail. The actuation is noticeably smooth and light. There’s something almost effortless about how it drops when you press that remote button while weighted on the saddle. It doesn’t fight you at all. I have been running wireless dropper posts for more than a few years and rate them highly. I did revert back to a cable-actuated dropper with a recent test bike and actually forgot about how much more I use the electronic version when compared to the mechanical. Put simply – you press the button, the post drops. It’s that straightforward, and after a few rides, you stop thinking about it entirely. The remote lever itself is large and easy to reach, with a response time that’s very quick. The amount of force required is fairly light, and the post slides smoothly out of the way without much effort. It’s on par with the RockShox Reverb AXS for how little effort it takes to get the seat out of the way.
The post is built tough, too. An IP67 rating means it’s dust-tight and properly water- resistant. Precision keyways keep everything stable with virtually no play. This is something I’ve been checking for religiously, and so far, there’s been nothing to report. No slop, no wiggle, just solid performance.
But, there are some downsides. The return speed sits somewhere in the middle of the pack. It’s not sluggish by any means, but it’s not lightning-quick either. You can tune it a bit with air pressure, and I found adding a few extra psi helped. When it’s time to raise the seat for a climb, you hold down the remote and it returns to full extension, but this is where the Reverb AXS has the edge. That post extends much more quickly than the Circuit. I inflated the Circuit to 180 psi, the max recommended, and even then, I’d call the return speed adequate, but not amazing.
On rides with more rolling terrain, where the seat is constantly being adjusted, the difference between the Circuit and the Reverb AXS is noticeable. The Circuit is a little less eager to fully extend. Of course, not everyone wants a super speedy post, and I wouldn’t call the Circuit slow, at all – it’s just not the fastest out there.If you’re coming from a post that rockets back to full extension, you might notice the difference. It gets the job done, just not with any particular flair.
The remote lets the package down a bit. For a post at this price point, the remote feels cheaper than it should. Don’t get me wrong, it’s functional and does what it’s meant to do, but the construction feels a touch flimsy. It’s not that it’s going to fall apart on you, but for the price, you’d expect the remote to feel a bit more premium. The button action is fine, and the ergonomics are decent, but the overall build quality just doesn’t quite match the post itself.
The price of the post is up there but not nearly as expensive as the new RockShox Reverb AXS. Wireless convenience does come at a cost, however. If you’re building up a new bike or already running wireless shifting, the LEV Circuit makes more sense. But if you’re thinking about replacing a perfectly good mechanical dropper, you’ll need to really value that cable-free experience.
One thing worth mentioning is the serviceability. KS has a decent reputation for support, and the post uses their proven hydraulic valve design that sits at the top of the unit. Time will tell how this holds up long term, but the company has a solid track record with their LEV series, so I would back them.
After several months of riding, the LEV Circuit has been rock solid. The Bluetooth connection has been flawless, never dropping signal or acting up. The actuation remains smooth and consistent, and the post hasn’t developed any play or quirks. It just works, which is exactly what you want from a dropper.
KS has delivered an impressive wireless dropper here. The smooth action alone is worth noting, and the battery life means you’re not constantly worrying about charging. Believe me, this can suck and ruin your riding experience. Installation is straightforward, and the performance has been reliable. For riders who value smooth, light actuation and don’t want to deal with cables, this post could be a good option.
If you’re in the market for a wireless dropper and want something that feels effortless to use, the LEV Circuit deserves serious consideration. When you’re out on the trail, pressing that button and getting the saddle to drop away without any resistance, you’ll improve the riding experience.
Cannondale Moterra 3
Words Lester Perry
Images Thomas Falconer
RRP $8999
Distributor Worralls
Although I’ve never owned one of their bikes, secretly, I’m a Cannondale fanboy. Cannondale has a deep, storied history as a true innovator in cycling. Particularly in their earlier years, they led the way with computer-aided design (CAD), and their unconventional suspension forks, the Headshock and the Lefty, which we still see today.
From the distinctive Flying ‘V’ frames of the early ‘90s to their short-lived motorbike division, they’ve stood out in a sea of vanilla designs. Let’s not forget NZ’s own Kashi Leuchs flew the NZ flag on a Cannondale during his glory years, across various cross-country World Cup and Olympic seasons.
The Moterra officially launched back in 2016, and although it caused a stir, that was as much due to its unique “only a mother could love” looks as anything else. It’s evolved incrementally over the years, but fortunately, this latest iteration has broken free of the lines inherited from that original beast, and we now find a far less polarising Moterra. The downside is that, from a distance, it looks somewhat like ‘just another eMTB’.
The Moterra 3 is a full 29er-wheeled bike with 150mm travel Horst-link-driven rear suspension and 160mm up front. The frame is entirely crafted from Cannondale’s SmartForm C1 Alloy with tidily finished welds and large tube shapes. There’s a gigantor-sized head tube allowing for cable routing internally through the headset.
Drive is taken care of by Bosch’s Performance Line CX motor powered by an 800Wh Powertube battery. Bosch’s Purion 200 display controls the whole setup neatly from the left-hand side of the handlebar. There’s a tidy alloy skid plate protecting the motor, and even a removable kickstand mount on the non-drive chainstay – very handy while parked up on the cycle trails.
The battery is easily removable from the bottom side of the downtube. The outer cover is removed with a simple twist of a thumbscrew at the top end, then the battery can be unclipped and removed. It’s a simple task but still requires the use of the battery locking key. Thanks to this ease of battery removal, two-battery (or more) rides are a reality. For those just wanting a bit more range, a 250Wh PowerMore range extender can be added to the main drink bottle mount, for an additional 30% when added to the standard 800Wh battery.
Geometry
Key geometry figures across the Moterra don’t stray far from the norm for this type of bike:
Chainstay length
455mm to accommodate the 29” rear wheel.
Head tube angle
64.8°, perhaps a hair steeper than some similar bikes, but this helps keep handling snappy and the front wheel under you while climbing.
Seat tube angle
72.5° actual and 78.2° effective. The effective seat tube angle is steep enough, although if you run an exceptionally high seat height this will be slacker, so it’s worth sitting on the bike to see where things line up for each individual.
Reach
A 45.9cm reach is a tad shorter than some more “progressive” bikes, but again fine for this level of rig.
Stack
64.1cm. The Moterra stack is on the higher side for sure. That’s not a negative thing, though, as it means handlebars can be set lower towards the headset, with no need to have a stack of spacers or super-high-rise bars to get the cockpit set up correctly. The only downside I can see is that an increased stack generally brings with it a higher front end of the top tube and, consequently, lower standover clearance.
Drive Unit
I was pleasantly surprised at how controlled and consistent the power was. Overall it maintained traction exceptionally well. One of my test loops has a long clay climb, which, even with the slightest bit of moisture, is a challenge to clear. In damp conditions, I managed to all but clear the climb, the eMTB mode tempering the drive at the wheel to maintain a surprising level of traction. Although it still took some finesse, it was significantly easier than some other eMTBs that I’ve tackled the same climb on in equivalent conditions.
Components
Overall, the component selection on the Moterra 3 suits its price point and the riders it’s targeting. No frills here, just solid parts that should have some longevity.
It’s been some years since RockShox ditched the Psylo fork, but it’s back! Anyone who was riding the Psylo back in the early 2000s won’t find much resemblance to this new version other than the name (probably a good thing). The Psylo range supersedes several of the lower- end RockShox forks, including the Revelation, Yari, and 35, with different Psylo models.
The Psylo Silver RC fork on the Moterra has 160mm travel and slides on 35mm stanchions. A revised motion control damper is fitted and features a simple dial for low-speed compression adjustment. RockShox claim the damper is tuned to mimic their higher-level Charger dampers. Although I wasn’t able to quantify RockShox’s claims that it felt similar to a Charger, the overall performance of the fork was better than I expected from this lower-mid-tier offering. It was plenty plush and tracked really well.
The low-speed compression knob worked fine, although I ran it more or less open at all times, and there’s plenty of rebound damping available. Again, somewhat surprisingly, the fork punched above its weight in the stiffness department; the long 35mm stanchions are obviously helped out by the stiffness of the beefy lower legs. The fork is certainly not as stiff as the larger 38mm-stanchioned Zeb, but I’d wager that it’s not dissimilar to a Lyrik when it comes to stiffness. It’s sure heavier though, around 700g depending on the level of Lyrik it’s compared to! The RockShox Deluxe Select air shock handles damping duties out back. It’s a simple shock with solely a rebound adjuster. RockShox claim the shock performs similarly to many of their higher-end units thanks to shared damper tunes. This unit just gets less adjustment and is heavier than the upper-end ones. The back end is nice and supple. It’s got a plush, linear feel and ramps up quickly at the end of the travel. There were times it would have been nice to have a bit more support to push against, and moments under heavy compression when there was a bit of uneasiness as it prepared to rebound. For most riding, though, this shock is adequate for the bike, and if a buyer wanted some extra performance, an upgraded shock could be a good place to start.
The Shimano MT501 brakes with 203mm rotors front and rear are decent. They’re not the most powerful brakes out there, but they’re cost- effective and offer ample stopping power, considering they’re a base-model brake.
The bike rolls on a WTB i30 wheelset. It’s nothing flashy, but if other WTB wheelsets I’ve used long term are anything to go by, they’re pretty durable. They won’t love being cased onto rocks, but neither do a set of $3000 carbon hoops!
Continental Kryptotal tyres are featured front and rear in a 29” x 2.4” size. The Enduro casing offers protection against punctures and a level of support against being too squirmy underneath while railing turns or g-outs. The soft compound rubber rolls surprisingly well, and from what I’ve heard from friends, wears exceptionally compared to other soft compounds in the market. Traction was awesome across the board, although something with more spaced knobs may be preferred in really soft, wet conditions. The Enduro casings were okay, but I think long term, once these treads were worn, a move to some gravity casing tyres of the same model would offer more support, and even better puncture resistance.
The cranks are a nice short pair of FSA brand 160mm length with a 34t chainring. Nothing to sniff at here, I’m a big fan of 160mm cranks on an eMTB.
The drivetrain features a mechanical 11-speed Shimano CUES U6000, LinkGlide derailleur and shifter, coupled with an LG500, LinkGlide chain and Shimano CUES LG400, LinkGlide, 11-50 cassette. It’s got an almost yawn-inducing level of personality to it, but it’s been admirable to say the least, and the shift quality over my test period has been great. LinkGlide is claimed to last really well on eBikes. Like the rest of the bike, this drivetrain isn’t light, and again, it’s a place for easy long-term upgrades.
The finishing kit is from Cannondale’s in- house brands, with a WTB saddle. A pretty bog-standard 35mm handlebar and stem help keep you pointed in the right direction, and the dropper post is aptly long at 170mm drop on the medium bike. As usual, a longer after-market drop could be found, but as an original unit goes, this suits the bike well and works a charm.
On the trail
The Moterra 3 is an interesting beast. Its geometry and suspension travel lean it towards hard-charging riding. And charge it can, to a point. For a bike of this ilk, with full 29er wheels and a hefty overall weight, it hooks into turns surprisingly well, though it sometimes needs a conscious effort to weight the front wheel to maintain traction and go right where you want it to. Successive, fast corners, requiring quick changes in direction demand extra body language and strength due to the bike’s heft. As I mentioned earlier in this piece, the Moterra is a mountain goat. I put this down to a combination of the CX motor applying power smoothly and consistently, and the traction of the fresh Kryptotal tyres. A less tempered, higher power would likely break traction a lot easier. On climbs where the front end needs lifting up, and over steps or trail features, the heft of the bike is noticeable, but thankfully, the assistance from the motor helps wheelie the front end up. When hopping the rear wheel up a step, the weight of the bike is noticeable. Thankfully, even when the wheel doesn’t completely clear an obstacle, the motor overrun helps drive it up and over the feature.
With the Moterra’s travel and geometry numbers, this bike is plenty comfy on the downhills. The suspension package performs well most of the time, and even on steep and technical trails, it does the job it should. But when really pushed at speed through chunder, as mentioned previously, better dampers would be welcome. It may be a case of some further tuning with volume spacers or custom valve tunes or even upgraded suspension units to help keep the wheels tracking and bring a sense of calm to the ride when pushing hard.
Overall thoughts
The Moterra 3 (size medium) tips the scales at 27.4kg. With that in mind, I’ve found myself asking, “At what point does the overall weight of an eMTB heavily detract from its overall ride quality?” When ridden just on mellow trails, it’s great and offers no dramas, but where speeds are high and rapid changes of direction are needed, or it’s necessary to unweight over a rough section or even bunny hop, there’s a fair amount of strength required, and much more effort to stay ‘light’ on the bike than those at the lighter end of the eMTB spectrum. The weight requires a decent amount of strength to manhandle, and if you’re heading off-line or get skewed off a jump, getting the bike back in the precise direction you want to go is that bit harder. I’d imagine for inexperienced riders this would be exacerbated if they’re trying to ride progressively.
The recent software upgrade to more power output and torque, although welcome on paper, does leave me wondering if it’s really necessary for most riders (including myself). More power equals more battery drain and shorter runtime from a charged battery. I think there’s a case for smaller, 600Wh batteries on bikes like this, even with motors detuned for less power and torque. This may actually (total speculation) allow for similar range rides, and an overall lower weight of the bike, so more spritely handling. Possibly a net gain? I guess we’ll never know?!
I’d also question whether a bike of this level warrants having cables routed internally through the headset. They look tidy on the shop floor, but to get my stem height correct, as low as I’d prefer, they are in the way and get squashed down by the stem. With cables for mechanical gears, a Bosch remote controller, a seat post, and a rear brake all needing to squeeze in there, there’s a lot that could go wrong, and a lot of possible headaches if a headset bearing needs replacement. “Everything is possible given enough time and money.” A very accurate saying when dealing with internal headset routed cables.
So, who’s the Moterra 3 for then? For someone who’s looking to do a broad mix of mountain biking, commuting and more ‘bike path’ type endeavours, without the urge for too much airtime or aggressive riding, this bike, at this price, is more than ideal.
YETI LTe T4
Words Lester Perry
Images Thomas Falconer
RRP $24,900
Distributor Yeti NZ
The e-EDR World Cup is dead (eMTB Enduro Racing), but the bikes developed by teams trying to win these races sped up the development of eMTBs, and their learnings have helped manufacturers create some of the current crop of top-performing eBikes.
One such bike is the Yeti LTe which was developed alongside the heavy-hitting, diverse riders from the Yeti Factory team, including 2024 e-EDR World Cup overall winner Ryan Gilchrist and 2025 e-EDR World Champion (and multi-time Enduro World Cup winner), Richie Rude. Yeti’s race-winning pedigree runs deep, and their years of experience across all genres of MTB racing mean the brand is exceptionally well qualified to create some of the best bikes in the business.
The Yeti LTe is essentially a heavily updated version of its predecessor, the Yeti 160e – Yeti’s first race-focused eMTB. Geometry and suspension both saw significant updates; however, the biggest news upon launch was the switch from a Shimano drive unit to a fresh, much more capable Bosch CX-R drive unit.
The eMTB market has become something of an arms race recently, with buyers selecting bikes purely on the numbers associated with a given drive unit rather than the combined experience of the drive unit, frame and components. A drive unit alone cannot dictate how much fun or capable a bike will be, but it sure helps to have both the best drive unit and the best frameset.
There’s no denying that Yeti’s bikes target the high-end consumer looking for high performance. Even their most basic build options sit out of reach for most mountain bikers, but for those who either have ample funds or choose to spend what funds they do have on top-performing bikes, Yeti’s range is hard to look past. The LTe retails for $24,900 in New Zealand.
Usually, I’d hesitate to think that any bike priced this high could be exponentially better, or offer a much better ride experience than one that’s $10,000 less. However, I’ve been surprised to find that the performance – and all-out, grin-inducing fun – the LTe offers when ridden hard is, at least in part, worth the step up to its premium price tag.
Drive unit
In July 2025, Bosch launched a significant performance upgrade for the new Performance Line CX drive unit. This upgrade brought existing drive units up to date, more in line with the latest competition, raising max torque to 100Nm and power to a possible 750W (depending on the bike), as well as support multipliers going from 340% to 400% assistance. As part of the performance upgrade, we now find an eMTB+ assistance mode and associated Dynamic Control functionality. We’ll get to those features in a bit. Where fitted with the new Performance Line CX, most 2026 model bikes will ship with standard software, but users can adapt the performance upgrade wirelessly via the Bosch eBike Flow App.
Alongside performance upgrades, Bosch released the all-new CX-R drive unit and Kiox 400C display. The Performance Line CX-R drive unit is designed to win races and slots in as Bosch’s top-tier offering. It’s lighter weight, coming in at 2.7kg, and more powerful, coming stock with 100Nm torque, 750W max power, and 400% rider support.
The weight savings primarily come from the use of a magnesium housing, titanium crank spindle, and ceramic bearings, which are designed to handle the higher torques that come with racing and consistent use of aggressive assist modes.
The Kiox 400C display and wireless “mini-remote” were released alongside the CX-R drive unit. With these two gadgets, it feels like Bosch has finally caught up with the competition. The Kiox 400c is a fully integrated display that tucks snugly and almost seamlessly into the bike’s top tube just behind the headset. It’s large, measuring 2 inches diagonally, it’s bright, it’s high resolution, and it’s full colour, almost a mini-iPhone mounted in the bike! Unfortunately, unlike an iPhone, it’s not touchscreen. The mini-remote lets you shuffle between info screens or scroll between assistance levels. It’s ergonomically ideal, sitting where most remotes do, just beside the left handlebar grip, the buttons have a noticeable click to them, and their rubberised finish means even the sweatiest of fingers don’t slip.
If you’ve set up navigation in Bosch’s eBike Flow app and have a destination programmed, the Kiox 400C will display directions as if it’s your phone, even with handy sounds to notify you of upcoming turns.
There’s a host of information that can be displayed while riding, from heart rate (if you’re using a HR strap or other device), rider power, cadence, and even shifting suggestions. Ideal if you’re one to just throw it in top gear and grind around the trails – the unit will suggest shifting to a more optimal gear ratio. What’s displayed on the screen is entirely up to the user and can be configured in the eBike Flow app on your phone. Speaking of phones – there’s even a handy USB-C port at the top of the display for phone or light charging.
I found the Kiox 400C a considerable step up from previous, more basic, Bosch display options. The screen is a great size, and with the bright, easy-to-read display, I found myself taking a quick glance down to see what speed I was doing, or even what power I was pushing, all while navigating technical trail.
There’s a new assistance mode thrown in the mix, too. eMTB+ mode features Dynamic Control, which essentially switches between aggressive and more subdued output, automatically adjusting between the two based on rider inputs such as cadence and torque, as well as internal sensors that measure gradient and detect loss of traction.
Sampling 1000 times a second, the system seamlessly adjusts to terrain, helping maintain traction regardless of conditions or rider inputs. I found this mode to be the most natural and it felt like riding a regular non-assist bike. Although, when I put the power down, I was able to take advantage of the full 400% support and pull up and over whatever was in my path. The eMTB+ mode is not dissimilar to the standard eMTB mode in terms of how it works but it does offer the higher top-end power availability of the Race mode at 400% assistance vs the 340% of eMTB which doesn’t have the Dynamic Control feature.
We’re now presented with four assistance modes: Race, eMTB+, eMTB, and Tour+. As it says on the tin, Race mode is for just that: racing. Only offered in the CX-R drive unit, it provides 400% support (so 4x rider input). It takes some skill to make the most of this level, and it will rinse a battery quick-smart if not used sparingly. I found this level ideal for uphill sections where I knew maximum attack was the only way over or through them. It’s a load of fun but does require some caution, as more than once I nearly got spat off the back as the bike almost looped out.
eMTB mode, as we’ve known it previously, is like having the bike on automatic, offering less support than eMTB+ mode, up to 340% assistance. The Race and two eMTB modes have “extended-boost”. When stopping pedalling, the motor continues to drive for a short time, helping to maintain speed between pedal strokes or over technical crux moves where a pause in pedalling is needed to navigate a feature. Tour+ offers similar assistance to the eMTB mode at up to 340%, but loses the extended boost and prioritises battery conservation over all-out performance.
Users can tune riding modes to their liking in the eBike Flow app, so if you want more or less power or torque, you’ll find your nirvana with some digital fine-tuning.
It’s worth mentioning the Walk Mode. Hold the ‘down’ button on the mini-remote, and the drive unit moves the bike forward, helping push it back uphill. I used this each lap back up Kataore trail in Rotorua while we were shooting photos for this review. Without this function, getting back up the hill each time would have been significantly more difficult!
The whole drive system on the LTe is powered by a Bosch 800Wh battery. There’s also a range extender that gives an additional 250Wh for those big days lapping the hills! It would be nice to have an easy-to-swap main battery. Unfortunately, it’s not a quick trailside task. While I never needed to remove the battery, according to the bike’s manual (which is quite impressive, I should add), it doesn’t seem like something you’d want to do unless it’s really necessary. Sorry, team, no double-battery rides on this one, by the looks of it.
Frame details
The Yeti LTe is a 160mm (r) / 170mm (f) travel bike bred with an e-EDR focus. It’s crafted from Yeti’s signature TURQ carbon fibre, reinforced with Vectran (similar to Kevlar) to deliver downhill-bike-level strength. The complete chassis (minus suspension linkages) is top- shelf, lightweight carbon fibre. Using carbon not only helps keep the overall weight down but also allows Yeti to tune the ride feel.
The Sixfinity suspension is a unique six-bar design in which all six linkages contribute to controlling the wheel path. It offers higher anti-squat focused around the sag point, keeping a solid and efficient platform for pedalling or pumping. As the bike progresses further into its travel, where pedalling is unlikely, the Switch link drops and anti-squat falls away quickly, offering confidence and stability for downhill-bike-like descending.
As one would expect from a top-tier bike, all the small details are taken care of. Cable routing is tidy (at least externally), and key areas have guards and bumpers to protect the frame and drive unit from rock strikes and debris, or chain slap, all of which helps keep the ride experience nice and quiet and the frame crisp.
I tried to find something on the frame to highlight as a negative, or perhaps not quite right, but all I could come up with is that the ‘loam shelf’ on the lower suspension link behind the motor sits right in the path of mud, slop, and, of course, loam. Most rides, I’d finish with a little pile of debris in this area. No biggie when it’s dry, but I guess long-term over a winter of riding it may negatively affect the lower linkage bearings as they’ll be constantly sprayed with slop from the rear wheel.
On the subject of bearings, by my count there are 16 bearings involved in the Sixfinity linkage, which is not an insignificant number to keep serviced or to replace when necessary. I guess that’s the cost of having all the advantages the Sixfinity brings to the bike: can’t have one without the other.
Adjustable rear suspension leverage rate can be achieved via a swap out of the lower shock mounting chip, allowing for three levels of suspension progressivity tuning: 25%, 30% and 35%. This gives the ability to set it up precisely for where and how it’s to be ridden. I ran this in the stock ‘middle’ 30% progression setting. I found it ideal for my local North Island trails, with shorter, not highly technical climbs and descents featuring a wide variety of features, from drops and g-outs to short chundery steeps and high-speed flow with jumps.
The 30% was plenty supportive and balanced enough to keep the bike playful and poppy, but linear enough to give me the confidence and control for max attack. I didn’t test either of the alternate settings, but for true mountainous descents the lower, 25% setting may be an advantage, offering a more linear suspension rate. The inverse 35% rate should be more relevant for sustained steep, technical climbs and flat riding with its higher progression making the bike ramp up quicker while maintaining the buttery early stroke. These options also open the door to swapping out the air shock for a coil while still maintaining a consistent feel.
The higher torque of an eBike compared to a non-assisted bike means that if the anti-squat is not dialled in, it will be very noticeable, as there won’t be any consistency in how the bike feels under pedalling. Pedalling the LTe was predictable and natural. Regardless of my cadence or how hard I pushed the pedals, the suspension appeared to be unnoticeably active. If I can’t notice something, that’s a green tick from me, as it must be doing an admirable job: just turn the pedals and let the bike do the rest.
Those who want a bit more clearance over the tyre or more ‘flickability’ can switch to a 27.5” rear wheel via flip-chips in the upper seat stays, and thanks to the aforementioned shock mount adjustments, the bike will ride equally as well as it does in the stock, full 29er option.
The overall system weight of the LTe is a fraction over 23kg – pretty light for an eMTB in this e-enduro category. While that Podium fork adds 300+ g over a FOX 38, the weight still feels balanced on the bike, not significantly front-heavy. I’d love to throw a leg over one of the lower-specced LTe bikes with a lighter fork for comparison, to see if a substantially lower price tag really provides a less enjoyable ride experience.
Geometry
The LTe geometry is comfortably balanced. With a 64° head angle, it’s slack enough to be confidently ripped around any terrain and just steep enough to retain a level of playfulness and keep it nimble and quick through turns, even while climbing. A 78° seat tube angle brings the rider forward into a reasonably forward position for comfortable climbing and ensures the front end doesn’t need any overly pronounced effort to keep down while climbing. A 449mm chainstay, 465 reach (medium frame) and an 808mm front centre measurement put the rider in a nice central position within the reasonably long 1257mm wheelbase.
Component highlights
As you’d hope for on a bike with this price tag, the component selection on the LTe is nothing but top-shelf. I’ve picked out a few highlights below:
Fork – FOX Factory Podium 170mm
A new-to-market fork from the boffins at FOX, oh, and it’s upside down! They seem to have solved all the issues that previously stopped upside-down forks from succeeding, and this fork seriously impressed me. Although it’s not the lightest, some 300g+ heavier than an equivalent FOX 38 fork, the weight is well worth the extra performance. The fork changes direction from compression to extension and vice versa with less effort or delay than a regular fork, in part thanks to its lower unsprung weight and constant lubrication from the fork oil sitting atop the main external seals. Buttery is not a word I thought I’d use to describe this fork, but it is just that. The early stroke is phenomenally supple and even deeper into the travel, it’s evident this is very active and smooth, the wheel sticking to the ground, no chattering, jarring or feeling like the fork is overwhelmed, just a precise, controlled feel.
With much larger bushing overlap than a standard fork, which keeps the legs stiff and parallel to each other, there’s less binding as the fork legs compress, helping maintain the smooth action. Even under heavy braking down rough, steep sections of trail, there was not once when I even began to explore the limit of the fork.
There’s ample adjustment on offer on the Podium, with the GRIP X2 damper. You’ll find high and low speed compression and rebound adjustments, as well as the ability to add volume spacers. There’s a tonne of tunability available. On most bikes, I use manufacturer-recommended settings as a baseline, then tweak settings from there. On the LTe, to my surprise, I found that Yeti’s suspension setup calculator gave me ideal settings for everything, right down to tyre pressure, so I didn’t see any need to go outside these.
The only downside to the Podium at this stage, if I’m getting picky, is wheel installation. When the axle is removed, the lower fork legs can rotate, making it more difficult to reinstall the wheel and axle than with a traditional fork. Once again, a small price to pay for the performance this design offers. If, like me, you’re often unloading the bike from a vehicle after taking the wheels off, and in a hurry to get going, lining the dropouts up with the axle and wheel can take a few deep breaths!
SRAM Selections
With a SRAM XX drivetrain and 165mm cranks, you can’t go wrong. Although a 160mm crank would have been better, it’s not available at the XX level. This t-type Transmission is at home on an eMTB, and when combined with SRAM’s Maven Ultimate brakes, it’s the perfect combo for speeding up and slowing down. Dropper post duties are handled by a RockShox Reverb AXS 175mm post on the medium bike, while large and XL bikes use a 200mm post, and the Small frames use a 150mm post. Another great spec, but I still find it hard to accept the bulbous battery and control unit on this post – unsightly at best. Thankfully, it works like a dream!
Tyres – Schwalbe
The best suspension and bike setup can be let down by bad tyre choice or wrong tyre pressures. I found the Schwalbe Magic Mary Trail Pro 2.5 Radial Ultra Soft on the front, coupled with the Schwalbe Albert Gravity Pro 2.5 Radial Soft, to be wise spec choices by the product managers. Having never ridden radial tyres before, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Once inflated to the recommended 29psi rear and 28psi front, much higher than my normal pressures, I discovered why people have been singing about these tyres: supple, fast and grippy all sum up the radials.
With a lighter trail casing and ultra-soft rubber up front, and a heavier Gravity casing and sturdier rubber out back, there was no need for concern on any terrain I put them on. There was enough support and traction to keep the bike well under control, although on rocky, high-speed trails, a Gravity casing up front may be preferred. I didn’t get to test them on a super-wet ride, so I’d be interested to see how they perform in those conditions. Judging by the height of the tyre knobs, I doubt there would have been a need to use anything else.
Riding the LTe
The LTe is the best eBike I’ve ridden, and potentially the best overall bike I’ve ridden, full-stop, end of story. Set up was effortless thanks to Yeti’s suspension setup web app. I found no reason to change anything from their recommended settings after some initial pressure adjustment and dial twiddling. The medium bike was perfect for my 176cm height, and everything felt in the right place, even down to the handlebar width. I’ve reviewed other high-priced carbon eMTBs with similar drive systems, and I couldn’t get the setup to feel great, even with a reasonable amount of setup time and head- scratching, so it was nice to just hop on and go.
The LTe is designed with a downhill focus, and that’s where it really shines, although climbing is also excellent. Manoeuvring up and through technical climbs was on par with other high-end eMTBs I’ve ridden. Nothing really puts it head- and-shoulders above, and in some ways, the excess weight of the fork makes it marginally more challenging to pull up over obstacles. Fortunately, that Bosch CX-R drive unit has enough torque on tap to pull me up anything.
Generally, I blasted around in eMTB+ mode, the Dynamic Control aiding traction when the terrain was loose or slippery. Race mode was reserved for sections of climb that I wasn’t really sure I could get through, releasing all the power of Race mode in the hope it would pull me through. The Race level of assistance was more than I needed most of the time and often required more man-handling, and thought about how best to apply power to the pedals. This bike needs to be ridden hard to get the most out of it and really see where it shines. Descending is where the LTe really comes into its own, largely thanks to that Sixfinity linkage and the top-shelf suspension, but also the brilliant selection of components. For example, sub-par brakes would totally kill the vibe on this bike, regardless of how good the suspension platform is.
When throwing the LTe down a reasonably technical trail, I got the feeling the bike was just asking for more. The only limiting factors to how fast it could go were my skills and my level of self-preservation. The bike could handle much, much more than I was prepared to give it. Some laps through Rotorua’s Tuhoto Ariki and Kataore native bush trails really shone a light on how good the bike is as a whole.
Swooping turns, both bermed and flat, with roots, were no bother. Even with a reasonably long wheelbase, the LTe was easy to change direction in turns and held a line exceptionally well. At slower speeds, the weight of the fork was evident, but once I opened the taps into some of the faster sections of trail strewn with steps, roots, and heavy hits, I forgot that weight altogether.
The LTe’s suspension rewards speed and aggression, and once at a decent cruising speed, the trail seemed magically smoother. Even under heavy compressions, the bike was calm and predictable, and there were no “wow that was close” squirrely moments. I’ve certainly had moments on other eMTBs where the bike squirms underneath me, feeling like a wound spring as it’s nearing the end of its travel, and as it rebounds it’s a bit like releasing a wild dog to chase a rabbit: I’m not sure what to expect, but sure it’s going to end in carnage!
Although there’s a feeling the bike is like a plough smoothing out the trail, it’s still quite spritely. There’s enough support in the suspension, and the overall light weight of the bike means it’s able to be bunny-hopped and unweighted over trail features, and popping off bumps or jumps doesn’t require excess effort.
On the steep, while braking heavily, the LTe maintained a high level of composure. The balanced geometry and buttery suspension ensured the tyres tracked the terrain, keeping as much traction as possible. I felt comfortably centred within the bike, no feelings of the front end diving and that I’d be pitched out the front. Equally, I didn’t feel like I was a passenger needing to push off the back too far while dropping down near-vert faces, just a level of composure I haven’t found on an eMTB before.
Rough off-cambered sections or getting to the highest of high lines into turns were both areas where the bike shone; again, the suspension, tyres and geometry worked together for pinpoint precision. See a line you want to get to? Go there. No questions asked. It took me a couple of rides to really unlock the confidence to go pretty well wherever I wanted on the trail. As I mentioned earlier in this piece, my skills and self-preservation were the limiting factors. Still, the bike gave me confidence to push both of these further than I’d be comfortable with on many other bikes.
To sum up, the Yeti LTe not only meets the mark for a high performer but surpasses it. It’s an all-around exceptionally fun and capable bike to ride, and the fact that it’s an eBike just opens up more possibilities for how many after-work downhill laps could be ridden and how much steeper and sustained the climbs it could go up, versus an ‘acoustic’ bike. Ultimately, I think the LTe rider’s cheesy grin will be just that bit bigger thanks to the pedalling assistance on offer over a non-eBike equivalent.
While I was testing the LTe, I also had a couple of lower-specced, alloy-framed eMTBs in the stable. Jumping between this $25k beauty and a $9k alloy bike, the difference between the two couldn’t be more pronounced. On every level, the more expensive bike was better – maybe not $15,900 better – but the two ride experiences couldn’t be further apart. In isolation, either bike was capable and fun in its own right. But once ridden back-to-back, the differing experiences showed me that between the high-end and let’s call it low-end of the eMTB spectrum, the experiences are so different they almost can’t be compared, a little like a Formula One car vs. a Honda Civic. They both have a frame, motor, and wheels, and both can be super fun to drive, but from a high- performance aspect, when piloted by a driver (rider) who can feel the nuanced differences between the two, there’s a vast chasm between
Produced in partnership with Bosch eBike Systems
SRAM Maven B1 Brakes
Words Liam Friary
Images Callum Wood & Sven Martin
It wasn’t that long ago that the original Maven launched. Two years on, extensive feedback from World Cup racers, everyday riders, and bike brand partners has shaped the next generation. The result is a brake that feels more intuitive, more controllable, and more confidence-inspiring whilst not replacing the ethos of the original Maven.
The biggest change in the updated Maven is a redesigned SwingLink, the internal cam that controls how power builds as you pull the lever. To appreciate why it matters, it helps to understand what the original Maven was doing in the first place.
The first-generation Maven (A1) used a low starting leverage ratio, designed to minimise deadband. You know that brief dead zone at the top of the stroke before anything happens. The result was a very short, snappy feel – pull the lever and the power is right there. It was all brake, all at once, which some found getting used to. For me, initially it was full on, then I got used to it. But it was either on or off and not much in between. That low starting rate is what created the A1’s distinctive ‘cam-over’ feeling – a magnetic, almost binary engagement. In the field, some riders liked it and others didn’t.
However, Maven Base sits at the opposite end of the spectrum. Rather than a SwingLink cam, it uses a simpler DirectLink lever architecture for a very light, linear feel from the top of the stroke all the way through. There’s a touch more deadband than the A1, but the unhurried, progressive character was widely appreciated when it launched quietly alongside the Maven lineup. Its positive reception was a big part of what motivated SRAM to rethink the SwingLink-equipped models.
The new B1 SwingLink finished in gold to distinguish it from the original red cam, splitting the difference between those two approaches. The initial breakaway force drops from 8 Newtons on the A1 to 4.25 Newtons on the B1, nearly halving the effort needed to get the brake moving. That lighter engagement flows into a smoother, more linear leverage curve through the mid-stroke, where most braking actually happens. Then, at the end of the stroke, the leverage ramps up again to ensure full peak power is still there when you need it. The three goals SRAM set for the project were more control, more predictability, and the same power. The B1 SwingLink delivers all three.
Reworking the SwingLink had a knock-on effect that needed managing. A higher initial leverage ratio means more mechanical advantage at the point of pad contact. Put simply, left unchecked, the B1 would have bitten harder at initial contact than the original Maven, which clearly isn’t the goal. To balance this, SRAM made a deliberate change to the caliper.
The original Maven A1 caliper used two 18mm pistons and two 19.5mm pistons. The B1 moves to four 18mm pistons, the same layout as Maven Base. The slightly reduced hydraulic ratio at contact offsets the higher mechanical advantage from the new cam, so the overall feel at pad engagement is more controlled and predictable while peak power remains the same. As the SRAM engineers put it, they’re still baking the same cake; they’ve just adjusted the recipe.
I’ve been running the Maven Ultimate B1 on my Santa Cruz Hightower for just over a week. The lever feel is solid and confident, with a noticeably more graduated build through the stroke compared to the A1. You can feel exactly when the pads make contact with the rotor, and that modulation is consistent every time you pull. Where the original Maven could feel confronting – all-on or all-off, particularly in the first few rides – the B1 builds into its power more smoothly. It’s still a seriously powerful brake but just gives you more time to work with it.
Most of my testing happened during a week of riding in Queenstown, and on longer descents where other brakes have started to fade or lose feel, the Maven kept doing its job with the same character from top to bottom. Heat builds in the oversized caliper, but by design it dissipates slowly and evenly, keeping brake feel consistent throughout. On more technical, slower sections of trail, the improved control and modulation allowed for better precision; I could pick my way through with more accuracy and less guesswork than I’d had on the A1. During testing, I had a slight fall that resulted in a cut palm and a sprained wrist. I still had a few days to go and was thankful for the better control and modulation, especially with my sore hand. Put simply, I had better, precise, and accurate brake control.
Brakes are quite subjective. If you prefer short, snappy engagement of the A1, the B1 is a different animal. But the wider usability window is hard to argue with, and I’d expect riders who struggled with the A1’s abruptness to find the B1 a much more natural fit from the first ride. This was certainly the case for me.
The Ultimate sits at the top of the Maven range and earns its place there. Carbon lever blades replace the forged aluminium of the previous version, giving a familiar tactile feel while performing better in cold conditions. Maven Silver receives a new forged and CNC-machined aluminium blade with a precision weight-saving cutout, while Maven Bronze gets a forged blade as well, a meaningful step up from the previous cast construction. The Ultimate’s caliper features machined edges and titanium hardware. Reach and contact point adjustment are both tool-free, so dialling your setup takes seconds rather than digging out an Allen key.
One of the most considered aspects of the B1 update is that it’s fully backwards compatible with any existing Maven Ultimate, Silver, or Bronze. These are called tuning kits, not upgrade kits. Clearly, making a line in the sand between the two Maven brakes. The A1 (original) is not obsolete and that’s a good thing in this throwaway world!
The new SwingLink and lever blade are available as a tuning kit – no bleed required. All the changes happen on the dry side of the brake. Two T10 Torx bolts remove the lever, a pin punch (the T10 tool included in the kit works for this) pushes out the SwingLink, and the whole assembly swaps cleanly.
One compatibility note worth keeping in mind: the gold B1 SwingLink (identifiable by two notches on the cam body) should only be paired with B1 calipers, and the original red A1 SwingLink (single notch) with A1 calipers. Mixing them won’t cause a safety issue, but the feel will suffer. Fitting the new gold cam to old parts will result in a brake that’s far too powerful and aggressive, while fitting the old red cam to new parts will leave you with something wooden and flat with little power on offer – because the parts simply weren’t developed to work together.
In addition to those who install the tuning kit on an existing A1 brake, because the A1 caliper retains its larger pistons, fitting the gold B1 SwingLink to an A1 system results in the most powerful Maven configuration possible, lighter lever feel, with a slight boost in peak power at full stroke. Not a bad outcome if you’re after maximum grunt.
In my time on the B1 Mavens, they delivered consistent, well-modulated stopping power without fade on long descents. The original Mavens performed well too, but only once you’d adapted to them. The B1 removes most of that adjustment period. Riding with this much braking power available still means rethinking habits. Braking later into turns, going deeper into steep sections before loading the lever. Every pull feels the same. That consistency builds confidence and means you can really rely on them. After a few weeks, I prefer the more modulated feel of the new Maven. They still have all the power of the original Maven, but it gets delivered in a more refined manner.
KS Rage Circuit Dropper Post
Words Liam Friary
Wireless droppers are in vogue lately, and KS has thrown a great one for a good price point. Let’s start with what makes this thing tick. Much like the brand’s cable-actuated posts, the Rage Circuit has a simpler design and slots in below the LEV Circuit (top-tier) in terms of price. It’s much cheaper than the LEV Circuit, however, still shares what appears to be the same head design, battery, electronics, remote, and overall aesthetics as its more expensive sibling.
This setup is simple and hassle-free. There are no cables, housing, or internal routing, just the remote and the post. For me, the installation process was a real breeze. Drop the post in, clamp it down, attach the remote, and you’re all set. It took less than five minutes to complete. In contrast, wrestling internal cables through modern frames was a real pain. The entire setup took me about twenty minutes, and most of that time was spent adjusting the saddle height. The remote uses a standard CR2032 battery, which should last eight months or more, with an LED that flips when it’s time for a swap; the light changes from green to red. You can grab a spare battery from any dairy, petrol station, or supermarket if needed. I’ve had that happen a few times, so it’s worth having a spare and double-checking the battery life or having a spare stashed before you roll out. The post has a rechargeable battery that slots in conveniently. Everything you need is included in the box: remote, battery, charger.
The KS Rage Circuit post is available in 30.9mm and 31.6mm versions, with travel options ranging from 120mm to 180mm. KS has thoughtfully considered modern geometry, ensuring that total post lengths should fit most frames without any issues. The Rage Circuit also uses the same wireless remote as its more expensive sibling, which employs KS’s proprietary 2.4GHz wireless communication system. Conveniently, the rechargeable 450mAh battery is stored behind the seat clamp, keeping things tidy. KS estimates that the post will run for up to eight weeks on a single charge under normal use, and it takes approximately 4.5 hours to top up with the included charger.
Now, let’s talk about how this post performs on the trail. The actuation is incredibly smooth and light. There’s an almost effortless sensation as the post drops when you press the remote button while weighted on the saddle. It doesn’t resist at all. I’ve been using wireless dropper posts for several years and highly recommend them.
During a recent test bike, I actually forgot about how much more I use the electronic version compared to the mechanical. Put simply, you press the button, and the post drops. It’s that straightforward, and after a few rides, you stop thinking about it entirely. The remote lever itself is large and easy to reach, with a very quick response time. The amount of force required is fairly light, and the post slides smoothly out of the way without much effort. The post is also built tough. An IP67 rating means it’s dust-tight and properly water-resistant.Precision keyways keep everything stable with virtually no play. This is something I’ve been checking for religiously, and so far, there’s been nothing to report. No slop, no wiggle, just solid performance.
The Rage Circuit has some downsides. The return speed is average, neither sluggish nor lightning-quick. When it’s time to raise the seat for a climb, hold down the remote to return it to full extension. The Circuit is a little less eager to fully extend. Of course, not everyone wants a super-speedy post, and I wouldn’t call the Rage Circuit slow at all–it’s just not the fastest out there. If you’re coming from a post that rockets back to full extension, you might notice the difference. But wouldn’t have any issues coming from a cable actuated post. It gets the job done, just not with any particular flair. The remote could be a little better. Don’t get me wrong, it’s functional and does what it’s meant to do, but the construction feels a touch flimsy. It’s not that it’s going to fall apart on you. The button action is fine, and the ergonomics are decent, but the overall build quality lacks a touch.
The price is bloody good value for a wireless dropper post and perhaps one of the cheapest out there. In saying that, wireless convenience does come at a cost, however. If you’re building up a new bike or already running wireless shifting, the Rage Circuit makes more sense. But if you’re thinking about replacing a perfectly good mechanical dropper, you’ll need to really value that cable-free experience. One thing worth mentioning is the serviceability. KS has a decent reputation for support. The post uses their proven hydraulic valve design, which sits at the top of the unit. The cartridge is easy to replace should the need arise. While time will tell how long-term this holds up, the company has a solid track record with products, so I would back them.
After several months of riding, the Rage Circuit has been rock solid. The connection between remote and dropper never drops signal or acts up. The actuation remains smooth and consistent, and the post hasn’t developed any play or quirks. It just works, which is exactly what you want from a dropper. KS has delivered an impressive wireless dropper here. The
smooth action alone is worth noting, and the battery life means you’re not constantly worrying about charging. Believe me, this can suck and ruin your riding experience. Installation is straightforward, and the performance has been reliable. For riders who value smooth, light actuation and don’t want to deal with cables, this post could be a good option. If you’re in the market for a wireless dropper and want something that feels effortless to use, the Rage Circuit deserves serious consideration. When you’re out on the trail, pressing that button and getting the saddle to drop away without any resistance, you’ll improve your riding experience.
Bridgedale MTB Socks
Words Lester Perry
Images Thomas Falconer
RRP $2975
Distributor Shimano NZ
Socks are often overlooked when it comes to mountain biking attire, but with our feet firmly planted in stiff riding shoes for hours, perhaps they deserve a little more attention.
Bridgedale, a company from Newtownards, Ireland, has been crafting socks for over a century. Their journey began with socks for the army during World War I. Bridgedale’s focus on creating the best outdoor activity socks ensures that they pay meticulous attention to detail.
Bridgedale’s MTB socks are engineered with advanced cushioning strategically placed in key areas. The asymmetric design utilises cushioning in specific areas for each foot, while the Vibration Damping Footbed employs a unique padding to reduce pedal chatter and trail vibrations. Padded zones around the outside of the foot, ankle, and along the Achilles provide additional warmth and impact protection. Bridgedale has even developed a new Underfoot Toe Seam for this range. By moving the toe seam to the underside of the sock, they’ve added extra padding on top of the toes and increased protection against impacts in the vulnerable area.
Bridgedale’s FusionTECH process sets them apart by blending high-quality yarns and materials with the latest knitting technology. This ensures every sock is comfortable regardless of conditions. Summer-weight models use Coolmax for cooling, while Merino wool provides a soft feel, temperature regulation, warmth and anti-bacterial properties. The underfoot toe seam eliminates the cold spot across the top of the toes, an issue with traditional over- toe sock seaming. This choice of materials, construction techniques, and the availability of two different weights, ensure there is a sock in the range to keep your feet comfortable regardless of the terrain or the conditions.
Bridgedale’s new Off-Road Bike socks offer improved performance through enhanced fit and support. Utilising Lycra Sport, they provide a supportive compression fit. A structured Y-Heel band and elasticated arch ensure a close fit, eliminating movement and friction. This additional support and precise fit enhance foot positioning, stability, and balance, leading to greater bike control.
I absolutely dig a fresh pair of socks. The plush feeling wrapping around your foot is so damn luxurious. This was certainly the case when I slipped on a pair of the Bridgedale Midweight merino socks. Initially, they felt great, providing a tangible feeling of support, especially around the footbed. On the bike, the socks offered ample support and stayed up – slipping down is one of my pet hates! After several rides, including a long four-hour pedal, the socks performed well without bunching. This was achieved via the asymmetric foot-specific design which eliminates friction from cycling shoes and provides better protection than a regular sock. The moisture management wicks any dampness away effectively, keeping feet dry in both warm and cool conditions by controlling heat and sweat.
After several washes, the socks have remained in good shape. Another pet hate of mine is how quickly new socks can get destroyed by the washing machine. It’s super annoying when you drop good money on a pair and they end up out of shape after just one or two washes. Bridgedale’s range feels durable and they completely back their products with a Lifetime Guarantee. This guarantee covers any defects in workmanship or materials, reflecting their 100 years of experience in sock-making. Knowing your sock game is dialled means you can focus on your riding experience. Don’t overlook your riding sock drawer – treat yourself to a good pair that’ll last the distance. The only downside is that these socks are quite spendy – but the quality, durability and guarantee makes them worth it. These socks are incredibly comfortable, far surpassing most others in my wardrobe. They’ve been on high rotation during house duties and on most rides – they’re that bloody good!
SRAM Motive Ultimate Brakes
Words Lester Perry
Images Thomas Falconer
RRP $1280
Distributor Worralls
In February 2024, SRAM dropped their fresh, brutally powerful, top-tier gravity brake; the Maven Ultimate. Although Maven was their second offering with Mineral fluid, the change to a Mineral brake fluid on this new flagship model hinted at a shift across SRAM’s brake offerings, and a move towards bleeding out DOT fluid systems, replacing them entirely with Mineral fluid brakes.
A year later, in March 2025, SRAM unveiled what many had suspected was coming: a simplified lineup of brakes based around a more user-friendly, and in most opinions, better-performing Mineral fluid.
I’ve been running a set of Mavens on one of my bikes for about a year and when I saw the Motive launch, I was keen to get on a set. Realistically, they’re squarely targeted at most of the riding I do and would suit another of my bikes perfectly.
This range revision plans to reduce the SRAM lineup from 27 models down to just ten, in a move to simplify and consolidate. The range is now split into three distinct streams: Maven targeting gravity, Motive targeting XC and Trail, and the DB series targeting power at a reduced price, thanks to fewer features and added weight.
The Motive series replaces two previous brake series from the SRAM range. The Motive brings almost the equivalent power as the now-discontinued Code, at a weight only slightly above the also-discontinued two-piston Level series, but in a Code-esque four-piston package. The Motive calliper is slightly squarer, and more boxy, than the sculpted Code, but houses the same size pistons so there are obvious similarities, although with new fluid comes new seals throughout the system.
The Motive is available in three tiers: Ultimate, Silver, and Bronze, like other SRAM brakes. All share more or less the same performance, with only minor tweaks distinguishing each level. The Ultimate has a crisp anodised finish, a swanky carbon lever with bearing pivot, and premium titanium hardware. Silver level goes to an alloy lever blade, with more basic stainless steel hardware, and less swanky finishing. The Bronze level is a little more no-frills with its bushing lever pivot, basic hardware and less premium finishing. The calliper has a fixed line fitting instead of the swivel banjo of the upper tiers. Differences in weight between the levels are subtle: Ultimate 265g, Silver 273g and Bronze 279g (rear brake, 1800mm hose, ready to ride but sans mounting hardware).
The Motive lever stays in line with the new ‘stealth’ styling, keeping the master cylinder and brake hose almost parallel to the handlebar. Thanks to the DirectLink lever, the feel is lighter than the Maven, right from the start, and has a more ‘normal’ SRAM feel of “what you put in is what you get out”; whereas the Maven’s SwingLink style lever has a cam that effectively multiplies your input power as you pull the lever, giving a different feel more suited to the demands of heavy braking over long periods. There’s no pad adjustment, which keeps things simple and lightweight, although basic reach adjust remains.
Expert Kit
The Expert Kit is a great way to purchase the Ultimate brakes. The kit includes everything you need to set up the brakes and maximise their performance over the long term. A pair of brakes, two pairs of sintered and two pairs of organic brake pads, 2x 160mm and 2x 180mm rotors, as well as all associated mounting hardware and mounts, and a multitool, complete bleed kit and oil. Essentially a one-buy solution to complete a top-tier Motive set up for XC or lighter trail use, that’s customised to the user’s specific needs.
The Ride
In my case, I threw the 180mm rotors on immediately with sintered pads. With it being the end of summer, and fitted to a 140mm travel trail bike, I opted to start with what I deemed the most powerful setup from the get-go and, if required, switch to a smaller rotor or organic pads from there. Needless to say, I haven’t changed anything.
It’s not normal for me to run a 180mm rotor up front unless I’m on a cross-country bike but, not having the option to go larger (at least out of the box), I was stuck with it. I’ve been surprised at how powerful the brakes are, even with the smaller front rotor.
The modulation is excellent, and lever feel is consistent throughout a descent. The ‘what you put in is what you get out’ feeling is certainly there and they feel like you can just squeeze harder and get more bite, however, there have been times I’ve noted I’m pulling quite hard when needing to haul anchor and stop quickly… like when one of your mates’ crashes right in front of you!
These brakes excel in the realms they’ve been designed for; cross country and trail. I wouldn’t think twice about putting these on a full-on XC race machine (in fact mine will likely end up on one) and in cases where weight is still relevant, i.e. on many ‘trail’ bikes, these would be ideal, possibly with a 200mm rotor up front, particularly if you’re heading toward the 90kg mark. For any enduro bike or rider purely focused on descending, where pedalling is just a means to an end, and where raw braking power is paramount, something less weight-focused like a Maven, or a new Shimano XT would be much more suited, particularly when trails get steep.
I think it’s worth noting here that bigger, or in this case, gruntier and more powerful, is not always better. Many people (myself included) are over-braked, choosing the most power possible rather than what’s actually best for them, often blinded by the power and large rotor sizes. The Motives have opened my eyes to some of the subtleties that make for better braking, not just having maximum power, but modulation, consistency and even the changes in using different pad compounds or rotor sizes, which help make it optimal for where, and how, I ride.