Bike Review

Drive Unit

I was pleasantly surprised at how controlled and consistent the power was. Overall it maintained traction exceptionally well. One of my test loops has a long clay climb, which, even with the slightest bit of moisture, is a challenge to clear. In damp conditions, I managed to all but clear the climb, the eMTB mode tempering the drive at the wheel to maintain a surprising level of traction. Although it still took some finesse, it was significantly easier than some other eMTBs that I’ve tackled the same climb on in equivalent conditions.

Components

Overall, the component selection on the Moterra 3 suits its price point and the riders it’s targeting. No frills here, just solid parts that should have some longevity.

It’s been some years since RockShox ditched the Psylo fork, but it’s back! Anyone who was riding the Psylo back in the early 2000s won’t find much resemblance to this new version other than the name (probably a good thing). The Psylo range supersedes several of the lower- end RockShox forks, including the Revelation, Yari, and 35, with different Psylo models.

The Psylo Silver RC fork on the Moterra has 160mm travel and slides on 35mm stanchions. A revised motion control damper is fitted and features a simple dial for low-speed compression adjustment. RockShox claim the damper is tuned to mimic their higher-level Charger dampers. Although I wasn’t able to quantify RockShox’s claims that it felt similar to a Charger, the overall performance of the fork was better than I expected from this lower-mid-tier offering. It was plenty plush and tracked really well.

The low-speed compression knob worked fine, although I ran it more or less open at all times, and there’s plenty of rebound damping available. Again, somewhat surprisingly, the fork punched above its weight in the stiffness department; the long 35mm stanchions are obviously helped out by the stiffness of the beefy lower legs. The fork is certainly not as stiff as the larger 38mm-stanchioned Zeb, but I’d wager that it’s not dissimilar to a Lyrik when it comes to stiffness. It’s sure heavier though, around 700g depending on the level of Lyrik it’s compared to! The RockShox Deluxe Select air shock handles damping duties out back. It’s a simple shock with solely a rebound adjuster. RockShox claim the shock performs similarly to many of their higher-end units thanks to shared damper tunes. This unit just gets less adjustment and is heavier than the upper-end ones. The back end is nice and supple. It’s got a plush, linear feel and ramps up quickly at the end of the travel. There were times it would have been nice to have a bit more support to push against, and moments under heavy compression when there was a bit of uneasiness as it prepared to rebound. For most riding, though, this shock is adequate for the bike, and if a buyer wanted some extra performance, an upgraded shock could be a good place to start.

The Shimano MT501 brakes with 203mm rotors front and rear are decent. They’re not the most powerful brakes out there, but they’re cost- effective and offer ample stopping power, considering they’re a base-model brake.

The bike rolls on a WTB i30 wheelset. It’s nothing flashy, but if other WTB wheelsets I’ve used long term are anything to go by, they’re pretty durable. They won’t love being cased onto rocks, but neither do a set of $3000 carbon hoops!

Continental Kryptotal tyres are featured front and rear in a 29” x 2.4” size. The Enduro casing offers protection against punctures and a level of support against being too squirmy underneath while railing turns or g-outs. The soft compound rubber rolls surprisingly well, and from what I’ve heard from friends, wears exceptionally compared to other soft compounds in the market. Traction was awesome across the board, although something with more spaced knobs may be preferred in really soft, wet conditions. The Enduro casings were okay, but I think long term, once these treads were worn, a move to some gravity casing tyres of the same model would offer more support, and even better puncture resistance.

The cranks are a nice short pair of FSA brand 160mm length with a 34t chainring. Nothing to sniff at here, I’m a big fan of 160mm cranks on an eMTB.

The drivetrain features a mechanical 11-speed Shimano CUES U6000, LinkGlide derailleur and shifter, coupled with an LG500, LinkGlide chain and Shimano CUES LG400, LinkGlide, 11-50 cassette. It’s got an almost yawn-inducing level of personality to it, but it’s been admirable to say the least, and the shift quality over my test period has been great. LinkGlide is claimed to last really well on eBikes. Like the rest of the bike, this drivetrain isn’t light, and again, it’s a place for easy long-term upgrades.

The finishing kit is from Cannondale’s in- house brands, with a WTB saddle. A pretty bog-standard 35mm handlebar and stem help keep you pointed in the right direction, and the dropper post is aptly long at 170mm drop on the medium bike. As usual, a longer after-market drop could be found, but as an original unit goes, this suits the bike well and works a charm.

On the trail

The Moterra 3 is an interesting beast. Its geometry and suspension travel lean it towards hard-charging riding. And charge it can, to a point. For a bike of this ilk, with full 29er wheels and a hefty overall weight, it hooks into turns surprisingly well, though it sometimes needs a conscious effort to weight the front wheel to maintain traction and go right where you want it to. Successive, fast corners, requiring quick changes in direction demand extra body language and strength due to the bike’s heft. As I mentioned earlier in this piece, the Moterra is a mountain goat. I put this down to a combination of the CX motor applying power smoothly and consistently, and the traction of the fresh Kryptotal tyres. A less tempered, higher power would likely break traction a lot easier. On climbs where the front end needs lifting up, and over steps or trail features, the heft of the bike is noticeable, but thankfully, the assistance from the motor helps wheelie the front end up. When hopping the rear wheel up a step, the weight of the bike is noticeable. Thankfully, even when the wheel doesn’t completely clear an obstacle, the motor overrun helps drive it up and over the feature.

With the Moterra’s travel and geometry numbers, this bike is plenty comfy on the downhills. The suspension package performs well most of the time, and even on steep and technical trails, it does the job it should. But when really pushed at speed through chunder, as mentioned previously, better dampers would be welcome. It may be a case of some further tuning with volume spacers or custom valve tunes or even upgraded suspension units to help keep the wheels tracking and bring a sense of calm to the ride when pushing hard.

Overall thoughts

The Moterra 3 (size medium) tips the scales at 27.4kg. With that in mind, I’ve found myself asking, “At what point does the overall weight of an eMTB heavily detract from its overall ride quality?” When ridden just on mellow trails, it’s great and offers no dramas, but where speeds are high and rapid changes of direction are needed, or it’s necessary to unweight over a rough section or even bunny hop, there’s a fair amount of strength required, and much more effort to stay ‘light’ on the bike than those at the lighter end of the eMTB spectrum. The weight requires a decent amount of strength to manhandle, and if you’re heading off-line or get skewed off a jump, getting the bike back in the precise direction you want to go is that bit harder. I’d imagine for inexperienced riders this would be exacerbated if they’re trying to ride progressively.

The recent software upgrade to more power output and torque, although welcome on paper, does leave me wondering if it’s really necessary for most riders (including myself). More power equals more battery drain and shorter runtime from a charged battery. I think there’s a case for smaller, 600Wh batteries on bikes like this, even with motors detuned for less power and torque. This may actually (total speculation) allow for similar range rides, and an overall lower weight of the bike, so more spritely handling. Possibly a net gain? I guess we’ll never know?!

I’d also question whether a bike of this level warrants having cables routed internally through the headset. They look tidy on the shop floor, but to get my stem height correct, as low as I’d prefer, they are in the way and get squashed down by the stem. With cables for mechanical gears, a Bosch remote controller, a seat post, and a rear brake all needing to squeeze in there, there’s a lot that could go wrong, and a lot of possible headaches if a headset bearing needs replacement. “Everything is possible given enough time and money.” A very accurate saying when dealing with internal headset routed cables.

So, who’s the Moterra 3 for then? For someone who’s looking to do a broad mix of mountain biking, commuting and more ‘bike path’ type endeavours, without the urge for too much airtime or aggressive riding, this bike, at this price, is more than ideal.

Geometry

The LTe geometry is comfortably balanced. With a 64° head angle, it’s slack enough to be confidently ripped around any terrain and just steep enough to retain a level of playfulness and keep it nimble and quick through turns, even while climbing. A 78° seat tube angle brings the rider forward into a reasonably forward position for comfortable climbing and ensures the front end doesn’t need any overly pronounced effort to keep down while climbing. A 449mm chainstay, 465 reach (medium frame) and an 808mm front centre measurement put the rider in a nice central position within the reasonably long 1257mm wheelbase.

Component highlights

As you’d hope for on a bike with this price tag, the component selection on the LTe is nothing but top-shelf. I’ve picked out a few highlights below:

Fork – FOX Factory Podium 170mm

A new-to-market fork from the boffins at FOX, oh, and it’s upside down! They seem to have solved all the issues that previously stopped upside-down forks from succeeding, and this fork seriously impressed me. Although it’s not the lightest, some 300g+ heavier than an equivalent FOX 38 fork, the weight is well worth the extra performance. The fork changes direction from compression to extension and vice versa with less effort or delay than a regular fork, in part thanks to its lower unsprung weight and constant lubrication from the fork oil sitting atop the main external seals. Buttery is not a word I thought I’d use to describe this fork, but it is just that. The early stroke is phenomenally supple and even deeper into the travel, it’s evident this is very active and smooth, the wheel sticking to the ground, no chattering, jarring or feeling like the fork is overwhelmed, just a precise, controlled feel.

With much larger bushing overlap than a standard fork, which keeps the legs stiff and parallel to each other, there’s less binding as the fork legs compress, helping maintain the smooth action. Even under heavy braking down rough, steep sections of trail, there was not once when I even began to explore the limit of the fork.

There’s ample adjustment on offer on the Podium, with the GRIP X2 damper. You’ll find high and low speed compression and rebound adjustments, as well as the ability to add volume spacers. There’s a tonne of tunability available. On most bikes, I use manufacturer-recommended settings as a baseline, then tweak settings from there. On the LTe, to my surprise, I found that Yeti’s suspension setup calculator gave me ideal settings for everything, right down to tyre pressure, so I didn’t see any need to go outside these.

The only downside to the Podium at this stage, if I’m getting picky, is wheel installation. When the axle is removed, the lower fork legs can rotate, making it more difficult to reinstall the wheel and axle than with a traditional fork. Once again, a small price to pay for the performance this design offers. If, like me, you’re often unloading the bike from a vehicle after taking the wheels off, and in a hurry to get going, lining the dropouts up with the axle and wheel can take a few deep breaths!

SRAM Selections

With a SRAM XX drivetrain and 165mm cranks, you can’t go wrong. Although a 160mm crank would have been better, it’s not available at the XX level. This t-type Transmission is at home on an eMTB, and when combined with SRAM’s Maven Ultimate brakes, it’s the perfect combo for speeding up and slowing down. Dropper post duties are handled by a RockShox Reverb AXS 175mm post on the medium bike, while large and XL bikes use a 200mm post, and the Small frames use a 150mm post. Another great spec, but I still find it hard to accept the bulbous battery and control unit on this post – unsightly at best. Thankfully, it works like a dream!

Tyres – Schwalbe

The best suspension and bike setup can be let down by bad tyre choice or wrong tyre pressures. I found the Schwalbe Magic Mary Trail Pro 2.5 Radial Ultra Soft on the front, coupled with the Schwalbe Albert Gravity Pro 2.5 Radial Soft, to be wise spec choices by the product managers. Having never ridden radial tyres before, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Once inflated to the recommended 29psi rear and 28psi front, much higher than my normal pressures, I discovered why people have been singing about these tyres: supple, fast and grippy all sum up the radials.

With a lighter trail casing and ultra-soft rubber up front, and a heavier Gravity casing and sturdier rubber out back, there was no need for concern on any terrain I put them on. There was enough support and traction to keep the bike well under control, although on rocky, high-speed trails, a Gravity casing up front may be preferred. I didn’t get to test them on a super-wet ride, so I’d be interested to see how they perform in those conditions. Judging by the height of the tyre knobs, I doubt there would have been a need to use anything else.

Riding the LTe

The LTe is the best eBike I’ve ridden, and potentially the best overall bike I’ve ridden, full-stop, end of story. Set up was effortless thanks to Yeti’s suspension setup web app. I found no reason to change anything from their recommended settings after some initial pressure adjustment and dial twiddling. The medium bike was perfect for my 176cm height, and everything felt in the right place, even down to the handlebar width. I’ve reviewed other high-priced carbon eMTBs with similar drive systems, and I couldn’t get the setup to feel great, even with a reasonable amount of setup time and head- scratching, so it was nice to just hop on and go.

The LTe is designed with a downhill focus, and that’s where it really shines, although climbing is also excellent. Manoeuvring up and through technical climbs was on par with other high-end eMTBs I’ve ridden. Nothing really puts it head- and-shoulders above, and in some ways, the excess weight of the fork makes it marginally more challenging to pull up over obstacles. Fortunately, that Bosch CX-R drive unit has enough torque on tap to pull me up anything.

Generally, I blasted around in eMTB+ mode, the Dynamic Control aiding traction when the terrain was loose or slippery. Race mode was reserved for sections of climb that I wasn’t really sure I could get through, releasing all the power of Race mode in the hope it would pull me through. The Race level of assistance was more than I needed most of the time and often required more man-handling, and thought about how best to apply power to the pedals. This bike needs to be ridden hard to get the most out of it and really see where it shines. Descending is where the LTe really comes into its own, largely thanks to that Sixfinity linkage and the top-shelf suspension, but also the brilliant selection of components. For example, sub-par brakes would totally kill the vibe on this bike, regardless of how good the suspension platform is.

When throwing the LTe down a reasonably technical trail, I got the feeling the bike was just asking for more. The only limiting factors to how fast it could go were my skills and my level of self-preservation. The bike could handle much, much more than I was prepared to give it. Some laps through Rotorua’s Tuhoto Ariki and Kataore native bush trails really shone a light on how good the bike is as a whole.

Swooping turns, both bermed and flat, with roots, were no bother. Even with a reasonably long wheelbase, the LTe was easy to change direction in turns and held a line exceptionally well. At slower speeds, the weight of the fork was evident, but once I opened the taps into some of the faster sections of trail strewn with steps, roots, and heavy hits, I forgot that weight altogether.

The LTe’s suspension rewards speed and aggression, and once at a decent cruising speed, the trail seemed magically smoother. Even under heavy compressions, the bike was calm and predictable, and there were no “wow that was close” squirrely moments. I’ve certainly had moments on other eMTBs where the bike squirms underneath me, feeling like a wound spring as it’s nearing the end of its travel, and as it rebounds it’s a bit like releasing a wild dog to chase a rabbit: I’m not sure what to expect, but sure it’s going to end in carnage!

Although there’s a feeling the bike is like a plough smoothing out the trail, it’s still quite spritely. There’s enough support in the suspension, and the overall light weight of the bike means it’s able to be bunny-hopped and unweighted over trail features, and popping off bumps or jumps doesn’t require excess effort.

On the steep, while braking heavily, the LTe maintained a high level of composure. The balanced geometry and buttery suspension ensured the tyres tracked the terrain, keeping as much traction as possible. I felt comfortably centred within the bike, no feelings of the front end diving and that I’d be pitched out the front. Equally, I didn’t feel like I was a passenger needing to push off the back too far while dropping down near-vert faces, just a level of composure I haven’t found on an eMTB before.

Rough off-cambered sections or getting to the highest of high lines into turns were both areas where the bike shone; again, the suspension, tyres and geometry worked together for pinpoint precision. See a line you want to get to? Go there. No questions asked. It took me a couple of rides to really unlock the confidence to go pretty well wherever I wanted on the trail. As I mentioned earlier in this piece, my skills and self-preservation were the limiting factors. Still, the bike gave me confidence to push both of these further than I’d be comfortable with on many other bikes.

To sum up, the Yeti LTe not only meets the mark for a high performer but surpasses it. It’s an all-around exceptionally fun and capable bike to ride, and the fact that it’s an eBike just opens up more possibilities for how many after-work downhill laps could be ridden and how much steeper and sustained the climbs it could go up, versus an ‘acoustic’ bike. Ultimately, I think the LTe rider’s cheesy grin will be just that bit bigger thanks to the pedalling assistance on offer over a non-eBike equivalent.

While I was testing the LTe, I also had a couple of lower-specced, alloy-framed eMTBs in the stable. Jumping between this $25k beauty and a $9k alloy bike, the difference between the two couldn’t be more pronounced. On every level, the more expensive bike was better – maybe not $15,900 better – but the two ride experiences couldn’t be further apart. In isolation, either bike was capable and fun in its own right. But once ridden back-to-back, the differing experiences showed me that between the high-end and let’s call it low-end of the eMTB spectrum, the experiences are so different they almost can’t be compared, a little like a Formula One car vs. a Honda Civic. They both have a frame, motor, and wheels, and both can be super fun to drive, but from a high- performance aspect, when piloted by a driver (rider) who can feel the nuanced differences between the two, there’s a vast chasm between

Produced in partnership with Bosch eBike Systems

XT M8250 Drivetrain

Derailleur

Durability is one of the core elements Shimano strived for in this redesign. While they don’t promote that you stand on it, you can seemingly smash it on a rock and it will be fine. The parallelogram sits closer to the frame than the competition, and the revised chain stabiliser (previously clutch) sits a significant 16mm further inboard than the competition. The overall shape of the derailleur is wedge-like, designed to glance off an obstacle, disengage the servo, allowing it to move with an impact, then snap back into place and reengage once the obstacle passes. Given how easily the XT mechanical derailleur was bent during impact, this complete revision— and its durability—will be welcomed by anyone looking for confidence in their investment. Shimano launched the groupset to dealers at a ride camp in Queenstown in late February 2025; the ideal destination to test the real-world durability of the drivetrain and brakes before it landed in their stores. Queenstown’s rocky trails saw two bike mechanics smash derailleurs into rocks at different times. Knowing the level of impact a derailleur should be able to withstand, and how they’d just well exceeded this, they feared the worst; worried they’d be returning a smashed derailleur to the Shimano team. This wasn’t the case, though, and the units continued their ‘zit-zit’ noises and flawless shifting. The proof was in the pudding.

Because they began with a completely clean slate, rather than working with an existing battery style, the design wizards at Shimano managed to squeeze the derailleur battery into the centre of the parallelogram, keeping it well out of harm’s way. Installation and removal of the battery is unique; a cap on the base of the derailleur slides off, allowing the battery to slide out of the bottom of the derailleur body. The battery cap provides upward tension on the battery contacts and the rubber seal surrounding them. Shimano’s North American development team commented that this provides a water-tight seal around the terminals. However, the rest of the battery is open to whatever elements can make it into the battery cavity. So, while the terminals remain dry and clean, the rest of the battery can be wet and dirty after a mid-winter slop fest. I can’t see any way, unless intentionally, that the battery could be damaged in its home within the derailleur. Even the way that the battery door slides into place means that even with a hard impact, it should stay put; it also helps provide some damping to a direct blow.

The battery itself is a tidy little 310mAh versus the SRAM 300mAh. Shimano claims that during testing, their slightly larger battery, combined with a more efficient system, offers 340km of riding vs 230km of the SRAM, under identical test conditions.

What, no UDH? As much as the UDH derailleur has become commonplace—and for good reason—there are still a considerable number of frames available without one. Although this new derailleur doesn’t require a unique UDH hanger, it benefits from the UDH’s increased stiffness if it’s attached to one.

Two derailleur cage lengths are on offer, depending on which cassette it’s paired with: a 10-51t (long cage) or 9-45t (short cage). The 9-45t offers 10% less range (500%) than the 10-51t (510%) but achieves equivalent ratios with a smaller, 28 vs 32 tooth chainring. This ‘Compact drive’, with its smaller ring combined with the shorter cage derailleur and shorter chain, saves some weight but, more importantly, offers better ground clearance: some 8mm at the chainring, and 23mm at the derailleur—not insignificant, and totally worthy if it’s being threaded through rocky terrain or deep ruts over long rides.

The cassette itself is essentially unchanged, aside from some tweaks to tooth profiles increasing shifting quality a fraction, and the obvious addition of the 9-45t option with a new lockring. Yes, you’ll need a new tool for that. This updated cassette is completely backwards compatible, and fear not, if you’ve committed to a ‘Compact drive’ with its short derailleur cage but want to go back to a more ‘regular’ setup with the larger cassette and chainring, this can be achieved with a simple swap to the ‘long’ derailleur cage, rather than necessitating a completely new derailleur.

Clutches are out, springs are in. Enabling the slimline profile of the front edge of the derailleur is the change of the tensioner mechanism. Gone is the venerable clutch, replaced by a much tidier dual opposing spring stabiliser. With a claimed 72% increase in tension and better chain wrap around the cogs, there’s now better shifting and less ‘skipping’ of gears. Shimano claims this new system is service-free, and its performance won’t degrade over time. If this proves to be the case, then this change in chain stabiliser will be welcomed by anyone who’s dealt with a dicky clutch in the past.

The combination of the new chain stabiliser and a smaller b-tension gap (distance from top jockey wheel to cassette cog) has enabled increased chain wrap, meaning a faster, more positive gear shift, and less of the chain bouncing off the top jockey wheel. The jockey wheels aren’t needlessly overengineered and, with no holes in them, there’s no chance sticks or debris can go through the cog, jamming it up.

In my thinking, the new shifter is a perfect evolution of the XT mechanical shifter (it’s not even worth mentioning the previous M8050 Di2 shifter!). Rather than an entirely new and unfamiliar shifter system, Shimano have taken the familiar fixings, paddle layout and overall styling of mechanical XT- 8100 and brought it into this century with thoughtful refining and class-leading tech.

The shift paddles are in a similar position to previous, although the ‘up’ (harder) shift paddle is slightly more tucked in behind the ‘down’ paddle. Its positioning seemed odd at first, but I quickly forgot about it, never giving it another thought; it just worked as it should. Each independent paddle has a degree of adjustability and, when combined with the overall adjustment of the complete shifter unit, i.e. upward/downward and inside/ outside on the handlebar, there’s a decent level of customisation to suit all preferences.

Another nice carryover from the mechanical is the two-step multi-shift; depress either shifter paddle and there are two clicks as it moves through its travel. That’s two shifts, or hold the shifter on a stop to shift multiple gears.

The shifters light action does take some getting used to, and I initially found I was over-shifting, leaping to gears beyond where I wanted to be. It didn’t take long to become accustomed to the light action, and I found myself shifting gears on a whim. The shift speed is so fast that it’s a case of thinking about a shift, tapping the paddle and almost instantly being in the next gear. Anyone familiar with road Di2 will find the feeling familiar.

On the rider-facing edge of the shifter is a small button for on-the-fly adjustment. This button allows for a level of adjustment within the unit while riding, no need to open the e-Tube app on a phone to fine-tune a shift that’s not quite perfect, or switch into auto-shift mode (when paired to an EP-8 e-bike motor). The button can be further customised in the e-Tube app, where a host of other settings and customisations are available, from shift speed or shift paddle customisation to specific eBike functions.

Crankarms remain largely unchanged from previous, aside from tweaked graphics. The refined one-piece chainring is updated and specifically sculpted for impact resistance, particularly when feet are parallel, ensuring it can withstand larger impacts than the previous version. The new chainring has an offset, giving a 55mm chainline for better overall performance and efficiency. The cranks are now available in more sizes, right down to a 160mm length.

When asked about replacement parts for the derailleur, Shimano’s response was an interesting one. SRAM claims a fully rebuildable derailleur, offering replacement parts for a complete T-type derailleur rebuild. Shimano, on the flip side, utilise a standard derailleur hanger, relying on the redundancy of this to help protect a derailleur from significant harm during excessive impact. Shimano’s thinking is that if a derailleur is damaged enough not to function correctly, and a replacement hanger doesn’t solve it, then the mech itself has sustained damage significant enough that even if spare parts were available, it would likely require a full derailleur worth of parts to get it back to 100% shift quality.

Drivetrain on the trail

XT M8250 has a familiar feel at the pedals, and outside of the electronic shifting part, everything feels similar to the XT mechanical, and that’s a good thing. First off, as mentioned earlier, the shifter, while familiar in layout, did take a little time to adjust to; the action is just so light.

Shift speed is fantastic and totally noticeable. I find myself shifting more, and whenever I want, rather than having to think early about when I need the gear to be engaged—we’re talking fractions of a second here but it makes a difference. With this XT, it’s just a simple thought of ‘I want to be in this gear’ and quickly shifting to it, nearly instantly. In situations where shift speed is key, on unfamiliar technical trails or rolling terrain with surprise features, where a prompt shift is paramount, the XT Di2 delivers.

The new chain stabiliser does its job well. I’ve had no dropped chains and, although it’s claimed to have much higher (75% more) tension than the clutch of old, it seems much smoother through its motion. One thing I have noticed is a subtle, dull ‘thud’ at times after the bike has been near full compression. Shimano tells me this is the derailleur cage returning to its neutral position and isn’t noticeable on all bikes.

I haven’t tested the impact resistance of the system as yet, but I’ve dragged the derailleur on the side of a few ruts and nothing untoward has happened. It strikes a slim silhouette and, from the reports I’ve heard, lives up to expectations when it comes to rock impacts.

During one ride, I noticed the chain exhibited almost chain-suck-like characteristics and made a strange ticking noise in the easiest two gears. Although the chainrings’ slightly revised tooth profiles decrease chain drops, with a dirty, dry chain it appears the teeth can hold on to the chain a fraction longer than ideal as the chain is rolling off them. It’s a simple fix with a clean and lube, but interesting to note and I’d be keen to do a huge 6+ hour ride in the wet to see how it reacts.

The big question on many people’s lips is this: how does this new XT compare to a SRAM AXS transmission? Shimano’s Hyperglide+ system can shift 1-2 gears under full power with ease, although it doesn’t have as ‘sure’ of a feel and there’s a bit more noise to the shift than SRAM’s Transmission, however, the speed of change on the XT makes up for the extra noise. The slower Transmission shift means that at times, if I’m caught out or late to shift, I’m still between gears while powering up a section. Thankfully, it’s so solid while shifting under power that I can push hard on the pedals without any worries. The Shimano is quite different; in similar scenarios, the XT will be entirely shifted, its gears will already be completely engaged before I have any worries, whereas the Transmission may still be halfway through its shift. Each brand offers a different experience, but neither is better than the other.

While Transmission and XT Di2 have similarities, the reality is that they are fundamentally poles apart. Transmission requires buying into a complete system, where the XT Di2 is supremely cross-compatible, and the barrier to entry is low. The release of XT Di2 has been likened to an iPhone upgrade; sure there’s some new hardware but it’s not a monumental leap forward. In the case of Di2, it could easily be said that this release only brings it in line with SRAM’s standard, non-t-type AXS systems that have been in the market a number of years now. With XT M8250’s crisper shifting under power, better battery life, arguably superior shifter and much greater durability, I think it’s clear XT outperforms the standard AXS. It sits alongside Transmission; there’s enough difference between the two systems not to crown one a winner, but instead they’re offering two quite different experiences and will meet the needs of different riders.

XT M8220 Brakes

As much as the new Di2 has been front and centre of this recent release, the new XT brakes deserve some serious spotlight too. The previous XT brakes were the go-to for many riders, and rightly so; they were durable, powerful and generally low maintenance, if only more consistent with their much-publicised wandering bite point. While it wasn’t a deal breaker for most, the wandering bite point wasn’t something you wanted to be thinking about, or affecting your braking, while in the middle of an enduro race run.

Thankfully, as with the Di2, Shimano have rewritten the script with an almost completely revised brake. Many of the changes not only affect the consistency and performance of the brake itself, but with changes targeting ergonomics, they’re comfier and more intuitive to use.

Beginning at the lever, the master cylinder has been squared up, now nearly parallel to the handlebar; the brake line exiting in a straight line, bringing it much closer to the bar. The lever pivot point has also moved toward the bar, 5mm further in than before. This change makes the lever path through its stroke more in line with the natural finger pull direction, tracking through the same path as a forefinger would as it pulls the lever.

The Servowave lever has a reach adjust dial and a ‘free stroke’ adjuster. Servowave has been featuring on the XT brakes, as well as some Shimano road brakes, for some time. Essentially, it amplifies the lever input as it’s pulled. I’m a massive fan of the feel and power it creates. The Free Stroke adjustment is more effective than in the past, but it still doesn’t offer a lot of range.

The entire system is filled with a new low-viscosity mineral oil, and it gets a new gold colour so as not to be confused with the previous red mineral oil, which isn’t compatible with these brakes—nor is this new fluid compatible with older brakes. The new oil is said to be much more stable across a broader range of temperatures and, when combined with new piston seals, should see the end to the wandering bite point curse of the previous brakes.

The calliper is not dissimilar to the previous: a two-piece, machined unit housing a pair of 15mm and 17mm resin pistons, a switch from the ceramic of old. The differing-sized pistons enhance stopping power while retaining exceptional modulation. The new pistons are coupled with previously mentioned new seals, which are said to snap the pistons back into place more rapidly when the brake is released, assisted in part thanks to the low viscosity oil, to put the wandering bite point of old to bed finally.

The brake pads have had a slight tweak in size, helping them fit more snugly into the calliper, which eliminates the pad rattle some units previously had.

Brakes on the trail

I’ll put it out there that the old XT brakes were my favourite brakes for a long time, and if it weren’t for that pesky wandering bite point, for general use, they’d still be on my bike. I’ve been using these new M8220 brakes for a relatively short time, so I can’t speak to their true longevity, but I have gained some insights into how their upgrades differentiate them from the old XT.

First off, they have an amazingly smooth, light action. The new fluid and seals help keep the lever feeling light and consistent. The feel is less on/off than the old versions, and although you can still feel the point the pads hit the rotor, there’s more modulation there than before. This softer feel shifts the lever experience more towards that of a SRAM brake, while retaining enough of the classic Shimano feel to be familiar. So far, I’m super impressed with the consistency of the brakes, and the wandering bite point appears to be gone; every pull feels the same, even down reasonably long descents.

The lever feel is excellent; I can feel the difference in the lever path thanks to the shifted pivot point. In theory, this should make long descents more comfortable, and it is the case, although the difference is hard to quantify. The new brake line routing looks tidy, but it does increase a bit of cable slap. This is easily fixed with a little tape or a zip tie. Shimano should have angled the hoses out a tad more, maybe not to the extreme of the previous, but somewhere in the middle would have been nice. This new angle does make it easier for internal routing of the hoses, but that’s a subject for another article, and not a good one.

My stock pair of brakes came with organic pads installed, which have proved to offer a nice bite, although I’d be keen to try a set of sintered pads in them for a maximum grunt at speed.

The overall power seems fractionally better than the XT’s of old, although power means nothing without control. I feel these new brakes have far better modulation and consistency than before, so overall are a peg up on the previous XT’s across the board.

The release of the M8220 brakes puts the XT back near the top of the list for overall performance, to dollar and weight ratios. Sure, there are lighter brakes around, but they don’t have the raw power of the XT, and there are certainly more powerful brakes out there, but they’re drastically heavier. The XT strikes a sweet spot in the brake market and should continue to be the “working man’s” brake.

Build & Motor

Component selection varies across the range, but the X0 AXS RSV model I tested came well-equipped. I did have non-stock components on the test bike, but for the most part, it was pretty close to factory specs. The SRAM XO transmission performed flawlessly throughout testing and works well with the extra torque from the eMTB. The Fox suspension—Fox 38 Factory, Grip X2 fork, and Fox Float X Factory shock—felt appropriately tuned for the bike’s intended use. Brake performance was more than adequate for most situations, with the SRAM Mavens delivering well-rounded stopping power.

The Bosch Performance Line CX Gen5 motor delivers its 100Nm of torque with a peak power of 750 watts, paired with the fully enclosed Bosch PowerTube 600wh battery. The battery is stored internally and is not removable, which maintains the clean aesthetics but limits flexibility for longer adventures or easy charging. The controls are refreshingly simple with basic buttons and no unnecessary screen distractions. This simplicity extends throughout the bike, there are no gimmicks or complicated systems, just a well-executed electric mountain bike that focuses on the riding experience. Bosch is also well-supported in New Zealand with a service agent, ensuring local support in case of any issues.

Battery life proved more than adequate for most full-day rides, though your km’s will vary significantly based on terrain, assistance level, body weight and riding style. Range-wise, expect anywhere from three to six hours of ride time depending on conditions and how heavily you lean on the assistance. The motor’s efficiency impressed me, it’s possible to extend range considerably by being judicious with power levels on easier sections.

Ride

During my few days of testing at Silvan Forest MTB Park, the Vala proved itself to be well-balanced across a variety of terrain. The bike pedals efficiently despite its 150mm of rear travel, never feeling sluggish on climbs or flat sections. The motor integration feels natural, intuitive – and there’s no jarring power delivery or awkward engagement. Instead, the assistance builds smoothly and predictably.

On technical climbs, the front wheel tracks with good precision, following your steering inputs exactly where you point it. This predictable handling helps build a ton of confidence—you know exactly where the bike is headed. The generous bottom bracket clearance means you’re not worried about crank strikes on rocky step-ups, while the rear suspension stays composed even wide open with minimal pedal bob interfering with your rhythm. In fact, during most of my testing I left the rear shock wide open, and it pedalled fine. The Bosch Performance CX delivers assistance that feels completely natural—it amplifies your pedal input smoothly but puts out grunt when you need to power over challenging sections. Despite running the smaller 27.5″ rear wheel, traction on steep, loose climbs is bloody excellent. The bike simply grips and goes.

Flipping the chip to the low setting changes the climbing game slightly. The seat angle slackens marginally but stays comfortably upright, while the bottom bracket drops 4mm – enough that you’ll need to pick your lines more carefully, but not so much that it feels overly low. The bike becomes more demanding on technical climbs in this setting. The front wheel needs more commitment to keep tracking properly, and overall climbing prowess takes a small hit compared to the high position. It’s a trade-off worth understanding, depending on your terrain.

The Vala’s descending capabilities are very well dialled. The 150/160mm travel package feels well suited to aggressive trail riding without venturing into an enduro overkill rig. The suspension is active and compliant, soaking up repeated hits while maintaining composure through rough sections. During my test period, I rode some of the rougher trails on offer at Silvan, and the Vala kept me upright and composed. Coming from the upper North Island, I don’t always have those sketchier, rocky, loose sections, so I was glad the bike was more than capable of handling these. It feels great descending—much closer to a regular bike feel rather than a heavier eMTB feel.

On corners is where the mullet setup comes into its own in tighter sections—you can throw the bike into turns without getting hung up, thanks to that nimble 27.5″ rear wheel. This was needed during testing on the tighter, steeper and rockier terrain, where the bike’s playful nature really comes to life. The frame feels balanced and sprightly, with the Bosch Performance CX motor delivering power so intuitively. The larger front wheel still rolls over obstacles efficiently while that smaller rear wheel allows for snappy direction changes that would challenge bikes with dual 29″ wheels.

The geometry strikes a modern balance without going to extremes. The 63.9° head angle in the low setting provides sufficient confidence for steeper terrain while remaining lively enough for tighter, more technical trails. The reach figures are contemporary without being excessive, and the effective seat tube angles keep you in an efficient pedalling position. The Vala is plenty capable across varying terrain, yet efficient enough for longer rides. The balanced character means it performs well across a broad spectrum of riding situations.

Perhaps not absolutely excelling in just one aspect of riding but rather taking a trail riding approach. I suppose you could say that the Vala plays things relatively safe. The geo, travel and spec are solid but perhaps not uber innovative. That said, the conservatism might actually be its main strength—it’s a bike that’s difficult to fault. The build quality is typically Santa Cruz: excellent attention to detail, clean cable routing, and solid construction throughout. The frame feels robust without being overbuilt, and the finish quality matches what you’d expect from a premium brand. Plus, I like that it’s engineered simply, as it means better functionality and reliability.

This Vala is bloody good fun! It’s one of the most well-rounded eMTBs I’ve ridden this year. The Vala strikes an impressive balance between capability and playfulness, efficiency and performance. It pedals everywhere well, is a very capable climber, and descends with absolute confidence. The intuition of the Bosch Performance Line CX Gen5 is dialled. The motor does what it’s supposed to and elevates the riding experience. The extra 100Nm update with Bosch Performance Line CX Gen5 rode exceptionally well, especially in eMTB mode, which I used for all testing. This update enhances sustained power, particularly at low cadences and in low gears, improving acceleration and climbing on steep terrain.

While it may not revolutionize the eMTB category, it represents a mature and thoughtful approach to eMTB that prioritizes the riding experience above all else. For riders seeking a premium eMTB that can handle diverse terrain without compromise, the Vala makes a compelling case.

Geometry

Tweaks across the board bring the Hei Hei’s geometry more in line with current trends, getting slacker, longer, but interestingly not lower; I’ll get to that in a bit.

Reach measures in at 449mm, and stack measures 620mm (size medium). These numbers are larger than previous but still reasonably conservative for this category of bike. The higher stack and shorter reach both assist in the bike feeling nimble and playful. All frame sizes get a 435mm chainstay length.

A 66-degree head angle is on par with similar bikes and is steep enough to give a snappy, nimble ride but slack enough that when combined with the 130mm travel of the fork, it’s able to take on the steeps and maintain relative composure through rough stuff. The 76-degree seat tube angle isn’t entirely progressive, but it’s steep enough to put the rider in a decent position for all- around riding. Up front enough for climbing, but slack enough to give a bit more room through the top-tube / cockpit when trucking along the flat.

The Gen-10 Hei Hei bottom bracket sits on the higher side of the average in this trail category, even higher than the Gen-9, with a height of 344mm and a 31mm BB drop (distance below the wheel axles). I can only assume this is due to the bike’s heritage on the technical trails of the Pacific Northwest, where roots and rocks are prevalent.

The high BB provides extra clearance for pedalling and roll-overs, and also enhances the bike’s ability to feel playful. The slightly higher centre of gravity helps a rider change direction quickly, keeping handling and maneuverability snappy and helping to thread the needle through technical features.

The Hei Hei is a prime example of the way the geometry of a bike is all interconnected, and assumptions drawn from simply looking at any one number on a geometry chart can be completely wrong when viewed in isolation. A bike like this needs to be ridden without even looking at a geometry chart, such is the likelihood that a rider could decide it’s not for them before even riding it and entirely miss out on what it’s all about.

Suspension

The most glaring change in the component package from the Gen-9 is the swap from the lightweight suspension of the 120mm RockShox SID fork and SID Luxe shock to a more trail-friendly, but not significantly heavier, 130mm RockShox Pike Ultimate Charger 3.1 fork and a Deluxe shock. This change really opens up how aggressively the 120mm chassis can be ridden.

Drivetrain

Drivetrain is taken care of by the newly launched SRAM 90 T-type mechanical groupset. An excellent option for a do-it-all bike, and although it lacks the push-button prowess of the AXS wireless system, the shifting is remarkably light and almost as accurate. No complaints here, although after months of electronic shifting recently, I was reminded that more upkeep is needed with a cable-actuated system, especially after several rides in the rain.

The Motive Bronze level brakes are basic with minimal adjustment and no frills, but with 180mm rotors front and rear, there’s ample braking power for this type of bike. The stock organic pads got blitzed pretty quickly, so an upgrade to sintered pads will take performance up a notch. Interestingly, and in line with the shift away from the bike being purely XC-focused, Kona opted for a post-mount 180 mm brake mount, eliminating the option to run 160mm rotors, a great move in my book. However, this change further removes the bike from being aimed at purist XC use.

Wheels

The WTB i30 TSC wheelset is probably not one I’d reach for as an aftermarket option, but as a stock item, it does what it’s supposed to. Sure, it’s not particularly lightweight, it doesn’t have any performance advantage, but it does what it’s supposed to. The rims are decently wide with a 30mm internal width, pairing perfectly with the supplied Maxxis Dissector 2.4” tyres. The Dissector isn’t my favourite tyre, but it is a good balance of traction and rolling speed, although not exceptional in either department. In my mind, anything less aggressive would limit the bike too much, and anything much chunkier would hamper the overall speed and pedalability.

Dropper post

The TranzX Dropper +RAD dropper post has proven itself so far. Although there’s more play in the post than in many others, it hasn’t deteriorated over the test period. Unfortunately, the stock option on a medium has a measly 150mm of drop. With my 720mm seat height, a drop of up to 210mm would be ideal, and thanks to the straight seat tube, it should fit fine. The larger Hei Hei bikes do get longer drops, up to 200mm on the XL.

Cockpit

I’m not usually one to want to swap out brand-new parts, but the cockpit on the Hei Hei, or most of it, just didn’t work for me. Something seems off with the shape of the handlebar, and I couldn’t get comfortable with it. A bit more backsweep may have solved it. The grips are a total letdown; I removed them after a single ride. They’re simply too firm, and although they’re reasonably grippy, they’re not comfortable. The stem? Well, a stem is a stem is a stem, and this is a stem for sure. It stays put and does its job admirably.

The Ride

I’d like to think I was still an early 20s downhill wanna-be, cutting laps with the boys, jibbing trailside features, and hitting the dirt jumps at the end of a big day riding. Reality is that this isn’t happening nowadays, and my days lapping downhill tracks are pretty much done. Most of my riding is solo, squarely in the ‘trail’ zone, and I’ve hit one set of dirt jumps in the last five years. When I’m heading out for a ride these days, I want a bike that’s light and pedalable enough to cover a decent amount of ground, but stable and capable enough to ride almost anywhere I want.

The Hei Hei isn’t a super light XC whippet, but with a few spec tweaks, I reckon it could pivot to be an all-out race bike, particularly for technical single-track and marathon-type events. In its stock format, though, it’s up to the task, although it leans more towards a super fun trail assassin, a nice, nimble, middle ground between an all-out XC bike and a longer-legged, heavier enduro or trail bike.

Descending on the Hei Hei dished out no surprises. On lower-grade, smoother trails, it flat-out rips, and to my surprise, I scored some Strava PRs on sections on just my first outing on it. When the trail tips down and things get a bit spicy, the Hei Hei is a bit more of a handful but can still handle steeps and drops up to the level of its pilot; just a bit more finesse is required. I found that I really had to keep a lid on my excitement, or I’d rapidly run out of talent and travel.

Thanks to the refined pivot placement, the Hei Hei is now a more efficient pedaler, particularly when out of the saddle with the power down; the suspension really pulls the rear wheel into the ground, propelling you forwards. Seated climbing is decent, thanks to the relatively steep seat tube, which puts a rider in a comfortable position with just enough weight over the front of the bike. On technical trails with steps and crux moves up or over roots, the higher-than-average bottom bracket height comes in clutch. I was able to pedal through sections where, on other bikes, I had to be more mindful of where I was placing my cranks.

The new suspension kinematic feels good, with a progressive-to-linear leverage curve that provides a nice, supple and consistent feel throughout the travel. It feels more lively and bottomless than the previous bike, which was more difficult to get feeling ’just right’ than this tenth generation.

I reached for the lockout on longer, smoother climbs or gravel roads. Once locked out, the bike sits up nicely in its travel, helping to maintain an efficient posture for spinning up lengthy climbs.

Final thoughts

If I had to have just one bike, something along the lines of the Hei Hei would suit most of the riding I do, and probably many of those reading this as well. Trail ripping, marathon racing, after-work blasts and multiday backcountry missions, it’s up for anything.

The Hei Hei is a workhorse of a bike, with no electrics, no headset routed cables, and really no frills. It’s a simple platform that performs across a wide range of terrain. I’d be happy to take the bike on the largest of missions anywhere in the world.

Frameset

The Tempo is based around 125mm of rear travel and a 140mm fork, aiming squarely at the short travel trail bike segment. Offered only in Aluminium, the frame stays true to Commencal’s commitment to avoid using carbon fibre, due to concern about its environmental impact.

The Tempo shares the sleek look of the Meta V5. The frame’s lines flow seamlessly from the headtube down to the rear stays. The low-slung top tube gives ample room for a rider to move around the chassis and helps keep the centre of gravity low.

Designers borrowed the Virtual Contact System (VCS) suspension linkage from the Tempo’s big brother, the Meta V5, which I reviewed in a previous issue. While maintaining the same overall function, the VCS is simplified slightly to suit the Tempo’s smaller suspension package. This virtual pivot design suits the TEMPO to a tee, allowing a reasonably supple start to the stroke, while retaining satisfactory pedalling efficiency.

Linkage pivots are all ‘through axle’ style with an expander cap to help keep them tight. They performed admirably and not once did I need to tighten any pivot point. Bearings are all manufactured by ‘Enduro,’ so I’d expect these to last longer than many OEM options. Three months in, I haven’t had any cause for concern, although most of my riding has been in the dry over summer, so time will tell.

At the end of the chainstay is the now obligatory UDH derailleur hangar, making an upgrade to a T-type drivetrain a no-brainer; a worthy upgrade for sure to get rid of one of those headset-routed cables!

There’s no funky, proprietary stuff happening with the Tempo, we find Boost 148mm spacing in the rear, a 31.6mm seatpost, and a BB92 press-fit bottom bracket—all bog standard, in a good way.

Rubber bumpers across the drive side seatstay, chainstay, and on the lower downtube, help mute unwanted noise and protect the frame from nasty chain chips or debris. Just like the Meta V5, the Tempo is surprisingly quiet on the trail, thanks in part to these bumpers.

Geometry

The geometry numbers on the Tempo are modern but not extreme, striking a comfy middle ground between an Enduro bike and a cross country bike. The ‘medium’ size I rode has a middle-of-the-road 450mm reach, a category-topping 628.5mm stack, and an almost vanilla 435mm chainstay (440mm on L and XL bikes), while the seat tube angle is “better than most” at 76.6 degrees steep. The head angle is “steeper than some” at 65.5 degrees, but quite normal for a bike in this travel bracket. All that is to say; much like the Meta V5, the Tempo has a very balanced feel, with rider weight feeling like it sits slightly further back than on the Meta V5 (which has a 10mm longer reach in size medium).

Cockpit

A complete Renthal cockpit features a ‘Fatbar Lite’ 31.8-mm handlebar that is 760mm wide and has 30mm of rise. It’s clamped in place by a Renthal Apex 40mm-long stem. This setup has a nice balance of weight, performance and value, and the fact that they specified a 31.8mm clamp bar gets a big tick in my book. Not to mention my favourite grip: the ODI Longneck.

Wheels & Tyres

The party bus rolls on a set of DT Swiss XM 1700 rims on DT 350 hubs. As I’ve mentioned in other reviews, I’m a big fan of DT Swiss wheels—and these never skipped a beat. They’re not the lightest, at over 1800 grams, but given the price point and intended use, at least a rider won’t need to give their wheels a second thought as they are burly enough to handle some heavy hits. Their 30mm internal width pairs perfectly with the specced Maxxis EXO casing tyres. Up the front, the DHR II 29” x 2.4” WT with soft 3C MaxxGrip rubber compound is a savvy choice, offering exceptional grip across most scenarios. It rolls nicely, considering the level of grip and soft compound, and is an asset to the Tempo when trails get spicy. The Dissector 29” x 2.4” WT 3C MaxxTerra on the rear rolls well and has enough grip to keep things under control in most scenarios. It’s not a fantastic tyre, but it does suit general ‘trail bike’ type riding – although, if I were riding more on loose, rocky trails, I’d be reaching for something with a bit more bite.

Brakes

A tried-and-true pair of Shimano XT M8100 two-piston brakes help slow the Tempo down and, although they’ve proved reliable, the product managers missed a trick by not speccing a pair of lower-end—but more powerful—SLX 4-pot brakes. The M8100 brakes are okay on short descents, thanks to the MT905 Ice-Tech Freeza rotors, but they suffer on long descents, and I found myself having to haul on the levers more than I’d like. Simply changing to some 4-piston callipers would make a huge difference.

Shock

The Fox Float Factory, in its stock format, suited me perfectly, and no tweaking was required from Commencal’s initial recommendations. There’s a lockout lever in easy reach while riding and I used this a lot while climbing on gravel roads or smooth trails. A dial also offers two additional compression levels when the shock is ‘open’. I played a bit with these but found the bike’s overall feel much nicer in the lowest setting. It certainly pedalled better in the second or third setting than when fully open, but the added compression stunted the feel and was only a bonus on smooth trails where I’d throw the lockout anyway.

Fork

Front suspension is handled by a Fox 34 Factory with 140mm travel. There’s all the adjustment one would want, with low and high-speed rebound and compression dials. Interestingly, the spec sheet listed the fork as having a 51mm offset, something that I thought had gone away almost entirely these days in favour of 44mm versions. I initially thought maybe it was a typo but, sure enough, the bike turned up with the 51mm offset fork. Perhaps smaller travel bikes suit the larger offset? Whatever the case, I never gave it a second thought. Once I was out on the trail, it turned out that a bike still handles fine without the much-hyped 44mm offset. Who would have thought?! (I say this in jest!)

I was stoked on this fork; anything less would hamper the bike’s overall performance, and the 34 took everything I could throw at it. I’m 80kg, so not a lightweight, but I didn’t notice any untoward flex and, regardless of the trail, the fork was controlled and felt well damped. They say something works well if you never have to give it any thought, and this fork was proof of that. I backed off one click of highspeed rebound from recommended and called it good.

Drivetrain

The combination of a SRAM GX Eagle derailleur, shifter, cassette and chain takes care of shifting. While this stuff does the job, it wouldn’t be my first port of call for an upgrade on this bike, given the accessibility, accuracy and reliability of electronic derailleurs these days.

The Ride

From early 2024 until I took possession of the Tempo in October ‘24, I’d been getting about on either a 160-170mm travel Enduro bike or a full-gas XC race bike. So, I was keen to get on board a modern, short-travel trail bike, hoping that it would be more suited to how and where I ride most of the time.

As is the norm for me on many brands, I sit between the medium and large recommendations on the Tempo, so I chose to size down rather than up. With the steep seat tube and short reach (450mm), the bike felt short when seated but put me in a nice central position between the wheels, and the ample stack combined with the 30mm rise bar put my hands up relatively high, giving me a distinct feeling of confidence; helping the bike feel like it would handle more than it’s suspension travel numbers would first suggest.

I’d convey the vibe of the bike as “playful”—akin to a big wheeled BMX in many scenarios. It excels when you’re being creative on the trail and allows for a super dynamic riding style; jumps, manuals, Scandi flicks and nose bonks are all in the Tempo’s remit, but it’s equally at home just cruising around in more of a ‘cross country’ mode.

Seated climbing is excellent. The steep seat tube helped put a good amount of weight on the front tyre, helping retain control when threading the needle between obstacles or up steep switchbacks or steps. Climbing steep pitches out of the saddle, the suspension extends nicely, giving a firm platform to push against and a relatively snappy feel. At over 14kg, and with components designed for longevity rather than light weight, it’s unlikely a rider would be getting any climbing KOMs on the Tempo. Still, at least it gets you to the top of the hill efficiently and without feeling like you’re dragging an anchor.

I commented in my Meta V5 review about how easy it was to change directions and drive through turns, and the Tempo retains this feeling. It straight-up rips turns—flat or bermed. I have fond memories of blasting through successive steep berms at the Whangamata MTB park, surprised by how it transitioned from one to the other. The only drawback of short travel like this is that rough and loose corners take a little more finesse to maintain traction; less travel means less sag and, ultimately, less traction.

Snapping out of turns, and under power while coming from a dead stop, the bike gets up to speed well and there’s no excessive loss of energy to the suspension.

Descending on the Tempo is surprising. It’s not the first small-travel bike to ride like it has more travel, but it would be one of the better ones, leaving nothing on the table. With only 125mm of travel, it can’t offer a big bike ‘buttery’ feel as it sits into its sag, but it does a great job of quieting the chatter on the trail. It doesn’t blow through travel to an uncontrolled or harsh bottom out during larger hits or g-outs.

The Tempo is stable at speed, although the nature of its shorter travel means it’s not as planted as the Meta V5 or other similar Enduro bikes, and needs more brains and less brawn to deal with rough terrain. Aboard a bigger bike, one could essentially point and shoot, standing on the pedals and having the bike do all the work—the Tempo isn’t that sort of bike…. it’s true that you can’t have your cake and eat it too.

The 125mm of suspension is enough—until it isn’t. Over my three-month stint with the Tempo, there were a few times I came into a rough section a bit hot and really had to keep my wits about me as I used every millimetre of the travel, then relied on strength, skill and (possibly more so in my case) luck, to keep the ship upright. These situations were few and far between, but it’s worth keeping in mind that there’s not the safety net that a full enduro bike would offer. Although that’s not what anyone riding this bike would be after anyway.

I like a big day in the saddle, under my own steam, and I don’t like to feel like my fun is hampered by my choice of bike – regardless of whether I’m headed up or downhill. Living in the Waikato, the majority of my riding (all within a couple of hours’ drive) is on trails tending more towards the mellow end of the spectrum. Lots of digger-built trails and not so many gnarly, steep, rocky, “heck, I hope I can make this” sort of trails—unless I’m away in Nelson or Queenstown, which is once or twice a year, if I’m lucky. With this in mind, I’ve settled on the fact that a bike like the Tempo is realistically all I need: the ability to cover a decent amount of ground, climb effectively up hills, and be able to bomb back down whatever trail I choose without feeling like I’m being held back by inactive suspension or pucker-inducing handling.

Although I didn’t need to faff with the linkage at all, if I needed to—due to the layout of the VCS linkage and pivots—accessing the bottom shock bolt or pivot bolts can be a bit niggly; needing to remove some pivot bolts to access others. Not impossible, just time-consuming. If something in the back end comes loose while out on the trail, you’ll be holding up your riding buddies for a few minutes while you get it sorted.

The internal headset cable routing is the most polarising feature of the Tempo. Cables for the rear derailleur, dropper post and rear brake all squeeze their way through the headset top cap and down through the top bearing. There’s a bit going on up front. I’m yet to have a review bike long enough to need to replace a headset bearing and, if I had, I’m sure I’d do myself the favour of taking it to a bike shop with a mechanic who has far more patience than I do to complete the procedure. It’s fair to say that simply cracking the headset open, cleaning everything, popping off the bearing seal and re-lubing it once a month or so (depending on riding conditions) would drastically increase its lifespan. Spending 15 minutes doing this periodically is easier than a bearing replacement, which could take upwards of an hour.

Final thoughts

It’s taken some time for manufacturers to get little bikes ‘right’, but it seems they’re finally getting them dialled, bringing a shift in the mountain bike market as people realise a bike with “just” 125mm travel can handle everything they throw at it. Depending on where people ride, they probably don’t need a big travel bike as their daily rig. I’m now one of these people, and I’ve had an absolute blast riding the Tempo over the summer. I still have questions about headset routing and pivot bearing servicing over a longer term and through a winter of riding but, so far, I’m grinning.